Hurco Vm1 spindle bearing replacement. Does it need to be sent in or can I replace them myself?

[Budwade]

We have a 2007 Hurco VM1. There is a bearing going out in the spindle and causing it to heat up. We are capable of pulling the spindle and replacing bearings and throwing it back in. Does this spindle need to go though vibration tests or bearings need preload added or anything that warrants me sending it in versus us doing ourselves. Anyone have any luck replacing spindle bearings without sending it in?

 

[Mtndew]

The spindle is the heartbeat of your machine.
Don't go cheap, get it done right or you're going to do it again causing even more down time.

 

[Vancbiker]

……and throwing it back in…..

This statement tells me no.

 

[mottrhed]

As spindles go these are pretty simple, that being said all the typical details of a spindle rebuild are at play. Yes you must get the preload right, yes it needs to be balanced. Also need to set capture right, check/fix all bearing fits, rebuild the drawbar, check/fix the 40t runout and contact. The devil is in the details in a spindle rebuild, if it was as simple as a bearing swap these companies would probably not exist. I attached a pic of one torn down for reference.

 

[Sam I]

I'm curious, once the spindle is rebuilt is it a case of slapping it back in or do they require shimming etc to get them in alignment?

Only reason I ask is I may have to go through this soon - got some fretting on my VM10i. Going to change the spring washers to see if that helps - I've blued up some holders and they show good contact but I suspect minor bell mouthing. Problem is I live in a fairly remote area (according to the service techs anyway - I can see the city airport from where I'm sitting) and there are no service companies that will do the grinding and the companies that do offer grinding want me to send them the spindle assembly so I'll probably have to drop it out myself.

 

[mottrhed]

I'm curious, once the spindle is rebuilt is it a case of slapping it back in or do they require shimming etc to get them in alignment?

Only reason I ask is I may have to go through this soon - got some fretting on my VM10i. Going to change the spring washers to see if that helps - I've blued up some holders and they show good contact but I suspect minor bell mouthing. Problem is I live in a fairly remote area (according to the service techs anyway - I can see the city airport from where I'm sitting) and there are no service companies that will do the grinding and the companies that do offer grinding want me to send them the spindle assembly so I'll probably have to drop it out myself.

So with this particular spindle there shouldnt be any shimming, but you will have to reset your tool offset as either a taper grind or full rebuild will likely change where the tool sits slightly.

I would recommend checking your drawbar force. If you are low now and you just slap in new washers doesnt mean your force will be right and the consequences are too high to risk, so you should buy, rent or borrow a gauge to prove you have an issue and prove you solved it. Reality is "if" youve been running with low force you likely have taper issues anyway.

I do not recommend grinding the taper as an assembly, some companies do it but the cons dont outweigh the pros for most circumstances.

 

[Sam I]

So with this particular spindle there shouldnt be any shimming, but you will have to reset your tool offset as either a taper grind or full rebuild will likely change where the tool sits slightly.

I would recommend checking your drawbar force. If you are low now and you just slap in new washers doesnt mean your force will be right and the consequences are too high to risk, so you should buy, rent or borrow a gauge to prove you have an issue and prove you solved it. Reality is "if" youve been running with low force you likely have taper issues anyway.

I do not recommend grinding the taper as an assembly, some companies do it but the cons dont outweigh the pros for most circumstances.

Thanks for the reply.

I have checked drawbar force and it is low (range is 7-9 KN according to HURCO, mine's reading 6 KN). Company I've received quotes from will do a full rebuild including replacement bearings etc (although due to time restraints I'm going to do the spring washers and hope first) but they won't come to my facility to do the removal / re-install unfortunately.

 

[mottrhed]

Understood, downtime is a killer. Give the drawbar a shot, make sure the grippers are in good shape while youre in there.

 

[Sam I]

Understood, downtime is a killer. Give the drawbar a shot, make sure the grippers are in good shape while youre in there.

Thanks,

I did ask about replacing those while I was at it but the HURCO techs said it's a newish machine (2018 with around 2000 spindle hours) and they very rarely need replacing.

 

[BT Fabrication]

We have a 2007 Hurco VM1. There is a bearing going out in the spindle and causing it to heat up. We are capable of pulling the spindle and replacing bearings and throwing it back in. Does this spindle need to go though vibration tests or bearings need preload added or anything that warrants me sending it in versus us doing ourselves. Anyone have any luck replacing spindle bearings without sending it in?

this isn't a DIY job. send it out.

 

[Budwade]

I did end up sending it out. This is what I recommended so I more asked this question to show the response to back up what I was wanting to do. I appreciate all the comments.

 

[mottrhed]

Soo, whats the review? Where did you send it, what did you pay, how long did it take and how is it performing?

 

[Budwade]

It will be back here next week. I'll update how it goes once I get it back in. If anyone has any advice on tramming the head or any problems anyone has had re installing the spindle then let me know. Thanks

 

[DavidScott]

It will be back here next week. I'll update how it goes once I get it back in. If anyone has any advice on tramming the head or any problems anyone has had re installing the spindle then let me know. Thanks

If the alignment is out don't shim the spindle, do the adjustments at the way blocks, and use a torque wrench when you tighten the bolts back up to get it right.