Wiring a remote to VFD

I have a Powermatic 3520B woodturning lathe with a 220v 2 horse motor controlled by a VFD. On the front of the headstock, there is a on/off switch (pull on, push off), forward/reverse (toggle), and the speed control (potentiometer).

I would like to keep these controls in place and working if possible. However, I would like to add a remote, with about a 10' cable and additional switches to control start/stop, fwd/rev, and speed.

Is it possible to just add the connections to the posts on the VFD in the same order the original switches are? Or do I need to do something differant?

Here is a picture of the wiring diagram for the VFD:

Parallel control wiring = dangerous.

Either run the remote set up with a mounting bracket on machine, OR use built in switches.

The danger of dual controls can be mitigated if you manage to arrange it so that only one control is active at a time.

I wired MY[\i] contol to the VFD using a cat6 jack and an ethernet cable. I could add a second ,movable, remote by unplugging the cable for the fixed controls and plugging in the other.

The down side of a second remote is that it introduces a situation where you have to think about which control is in use. Normally you reach to the same place to hit the switch without thinking or maybe even without looking.

Dan

Problem with standard Cat 5/6 for control wiring is ... It is not shielded like the manual requires... Stray RF can cause accidental starts or worse...

Please read your install manual... You might save an arm or something...

THERE SHOULD BE NO DOWNSIDES TO CONTROL WIRING... No special things to remember, no chance another can activate machine while you are working on it..

On means on, Off is off, and speed is adjustable... One pot set to high, one set to low, can only cause problems..

Well, it sounds like it isn't a great idea. I guess I'll just disconect the original switches to add a remote.

I work alone in my garage so there is no chance of anyone turning my lathe on.

I have used cat5 on a remote before with no problems. However, I'll stay clear of that now that I know that stray RF can turn the lathe on.

Thanks for your help guys.

Quote by ABarnsley:
"Problem with standard Cat 5/6 for control wiring is ... It is not shielded like the manual requires... Stray RF can cause accidental starts or worse...

Please read your install manual... You might save an arm or something...

THERE SHOULD BE NO DOWNSIDES TO CONTROL WIRING... No special things to remember, no chance another can activate machine while you are working on it..

On means on, Off is off, and speed is adjustable... One pot set to high, one set to low, can only cause problems.."

Gentlemen,

Rather than open yet another ad nauseum newby control wiring help request thread I have hit upon this one - departing from ABarnsley's inimitable "cut to the chase" style. I am a big fan of ABarnsley's "mince no words" writing style and his "keep it simple stupid" advice.

Our project is a South Bend 10L lathe that I just got running last night for my dear wife, Alma, who is a newly minted machinist. Alma is "vertically challenged" at barely 5 feet tall. She is also an intensely "hands on" kind of girl. That is politically correct speech for "monkey see monkey do". Seriously, she is all over everything she does.

So here is my dilemma. I am trying not just to successfully wire the remote controls, but to make them ergonomic for her - not only as regards her stature, but also, her aggressive work style.

This lathe is a 1962 10L tool room collet lathe. It has (or had) a 3 position toggle switch mid-ships on the back side of the lathe. This of course requires the operator to reach ACROSS the arc of death to perform the forward - stop - reverse operations.

The drum switch has now been removed from its original position. At present, the machine's functions are controlled from the keypad on the VFD, a Teco JNEV 201-H1. In a little while I will post a picture if I can find the camera. But for now, let me say that the VFD is mounted on the wall at a convenient height just past the tail stock and barely higher than the height of the built-in collet tray.

So, in keeping with ABarnsley's quoted advice, my next objective is to do a control circuitry installation that is intuitive and as "in your face" as possible.

Here are some components that I have available:

a) about 18' of the proper triple shielded 18 gauge control wiring;
b) the original South Bend drum switch;
c) a "traffic light" style push-button box from some other equipment;
d) a Square D foot pedal.***

***As to the foot pedal: I'm not sure about how its contactors work. I don't know if it toggles on and off with a push of the pedal or if it is "on" while your foot's on it and "off" when you remove your foot.

The first thing I'd like to ask everybody is if you consider a foot pedal controlled on/off (emergency stop basically) to be a good or a bad idea. And of course, I'd appreciate knowing the basis of your opinion.

Next, I'd appreciate opinions on whether I might use the 3 position drum switch mounted somewhere forward on the apron and possibly use the foot switch as some kind of lock-out. In other words, the foot switch over-rides the drum switch.

But the three overriding objectives are: safety, simplicity, and reliability. We are not concerned with "convenience" or "production efficiency" except to the extent that these are complementary sub-sets of the three objectives.

If I get a thumbs down on the foot pedal switch generally, I will forget about it. If there is any enthusiasm for it, I will appreciate some specific advice on how it might be utilized.

As to the drum switch: I'm not sure if there is any difference between "stop" and "emergency stop". Anyway, all comments and suggestions will be eagerly consumed.

Thanks!

Vernon

If you are running directly from VFD front panel keypad... STOP. VFD needs to be in an enclosure, unless it is a NEMA 4 sealed type unit... The VFD membrane switches are not as easily replaced as a simple remote switch and pot...

Foot pedal on/off switch would not be my choice.. A pedal or bar is OK for an E stop. but if something (chuck handle, cat/dog, or piece of steel) falls on start pedal...

Drum switch mounted right above quick change box would work fine. A 10L is a basic lathe, basic controls are fine... A speed pot could be mounted to side of drum switch..

Wires running to carriage will catch on chips, get crudded up and hang on things...(thats why most modern lathes have an apron mounted selector shaft, with switch located at headstock) Bad enough for DRO wiring, but I would not run control wiring like that...

Here is how SB did the switch mounting...

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