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Just a quick footnote to all this: I was going through my photo archive and noticed that even Sundstrand drive machines have the passage in the front bearing retainer and matching hole in the headstock casting. It appears that the overflow passage, as shown in the diagram above, goes all the way back to the earliest machines.Since there seems to be some confusion as to the overflow passage that I'm referring to, I went ahead and marked up the single-reservoir headstock drawing to reflect how the front headstock overflow passage seems to be set up in the three-reservoir square-dials:
The overflow passage is shown in cyan (light blue). It runs from the hole at 6 O'clock in the front bearing retainer plate (EE-1188, shown in magenta), underneath the front bearing reservoir and leads into the center reservoir. The red line shows the approximate oil level. Note that if the radial grooves in EE-1188 are not in contact with the outer race of the bearing, oil can drain out the bottom of the front bearing. It appears to me that a field replacement gasket (as suggested) is a bad idea, as it could increase the spacing, keeping EE-1188 from contacting the bearing, and cause just such a leak (as well as changing the pre-load on the bearings). Note that there is a gasket (part number EE-2621) between the front bearing retainer and the headstock; the gasket can be seen in Peter's picture.
I've colored the fixed portion of the front slinger (26118) green. The O-ring (1191-46) is red. The moving half of the slinger (26119) is blue. I'm not sure why the overflow passage was necessary, as any excess oil should drain out between the two halves of the slinger. Any thoughts?
Cal
Great tips here. Thanks!...
To stop the rear bearing reservoir from leaking, I applied a bead of permetex in the corner of the brass bushing EE2888, (sort of a 'smile' of permetex), and re-installed the bushing. So far, so good. This is far enough from the bearings that I have some confidence they will not ingest any permetex.
I did put a thin coat of permetex on the paper gaskets as I re-assembled everything, although I left the cork gaskets uncoated. I couldn't put them back in without something on them. ...
To re-install the o-ring seal on the front oil retainer (part 26188), I pushed the retainer through the bore so the o-ring groove was accessible from inside the gear box, installed the o-ring and pushed the retainer back towards the tail stock. When the spindle was installed, the retainer was pulled back into the right place, and the o-ring wasn't cut by the sharp edges of the headstock casting as the retainer was installed from the front of the lathe.
I ended up cutting a n additional hole in the paper gasket monarch provided. This is the gasket that seals the gap between main spindle bearing oil reservoir to the bearing retainer. There was no hole in the gasket to allow the oil caught by the front sling seal (directly behind the spindle nose) to return to the reservoir.
...
Is that photo with the bushings in the final position? The headstock drawing shows the shoulder of the bushing (EE-2003) actually back in a shallow counter-bore:
10ee spindle removalThis is related to my post on 10ee spindle problems, but now that the spindle has to come out to fix the problem, thought a new thread would be seen by more people. I looked through the search function and didn't find anything useful, but maybe gave up too soon. Anyway, I would like to get any advice anyone might have on the do"s and don'ts of spindle removal It doesn't look difficult, but there are usually some be careful about... or be sure to mark this before removal, that kind of thing.
Dale Nelson
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