I buy a lot of stuff from Aliexpress. Almost all the things you hear about Chinese crap is customer driven. If you seek out the lowest possible price for something, you will get crap.
My experience with Aliexpress is summarised below:
Higher price = higher quality. I normally search in...
The taper pin was made in the Eastern Bloc. It is hard enough that I could not drill out the TP with a new good quality bit purchased for the job.
The reason I want to remove the TP is to replace a worn threaded shaft and bronze nut. Not urgent but something I will need to do in the next few...
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I know that chuck back plate material has been covered many times before but I want to make a small chuck adapter for my old Nardini 350 lathe. I had already decided on cast iron, but then I found out my local supplier does nodular iron bar. I am thinking this looks better than CI and as...
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It has been a while since the last post but I failed to remove the taper pin.
As a consequence, I will need to use a sabre saw to cut the threaded shaft. That would be no loss because that is the part I would be aiming to replace.
With the shaft cut, I will be able to remove the gear and...
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My Deckel clone FUS22 came without a horizontal arbor. This question is inspired by a similar question about an actual Deckel mill. Rather than hijack that thread, I am posting a separate question for a non-Deckel arbor.
There is absolutely no danger of sourcing anything locally. The...
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I have my VFD setup like that, but I calculated it would still take my lathe up to 16 revolutions to come to a stop, without a workpiece in the chuck. A lot of damage and harm could be done in 16 revolutions.
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I wore an apron until it got caught in the lead screw and started to wind me in.
I was operating a lathe in a training shop back in the 1980's. The work piece started to wobble a bit so I hit stop. Just as the chuck was about to stop spinning, the chuck fell off the spindle onto the lathe...
I made the number 2 version today.
Two major changes.
I drilled a hole so the small end of the taper pin has somewhere to go. Much easier than fiddling with washers.
I version 2 has a lot more metal to make it stronger. The first version is too wimpy. It only just fits where it needs to go...
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I am doing deep maintenance on my Milling machine that is held together with lots of tapered pins.
Most of the tapered pins are in tight spaces where I can't get to the far side to backup with a heavy chunk of metal.
I read a post that included a comment from someone ( sorry, I don't...
The adjustment of the backlash on the x-axis is achieved with this large nut. The nut is cut along the thread. When the slotted screw is tightened, it clamps against the threads to stop the adjustment nut from turning.
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