Ring horizontal and sticking out the end of the bed and it holds the collet drawbar. Vertical hole holds a post that supports a plate with holes for the collets.
I would cut the screw off the end, drill and tap a hole with the same threads as original.
Screw a set screw in until it bottoms out. Trim the inside end until the stickout is same as original.
Goop up the thread with the highest strength Loctite and run the set screw in tight. Let loctite...
My mother had a small porcelain tchotchke that she kept on shelf in the living room. On the bottom it said Made in Occupied Japan. Only time I have seen that.
Looks very much like a King Dick adjustable wrench. Included in the factory toolkits of fine Sunbeam Motorcars.
https://www.bing.com/videos/riverview/relatedvideo?q=king+dick+adjustable+wrench&mid=28D12DBE02ED946772A528D12DBE02ED946772A5&FORM=VIRE
I have a set of 1J collets. The taper angle IS different. Now I cannot remember what the difference is.
They came with the South Bend Heavy 10 I inherited from my wifes grandfather. He was a scrounger par excellence.
He had butchered the draw tube to reach the shorter collet.
I ended up...
Interesting. I filled out the required City field with Poway, CA and I see nothing.
My field called Location is blank.
Going back to fill in location............
Actually I filled in location with (Poway, CA (from Location field) and that is what is showing right now.
Now being April 2, 2024...
Here are my thoughts.
Put the shaft with hole in a vise. End with hole sticking out.
Put a 2 mm dowel pin in a collet in the mill.
Adjust part and mill until pin will drop through hole.
Set an axial stop and slide the pulley onto the shaft.
Clamp it to the stop.
Center drill and drill pulley...
Good info. I can move the part onto a vertical mill. Giving it a try...........
Put the part in the mill vise, Indicated the hole. Carbide drill at 400 rpm with some brushed on cutting oil.
It went through the part with no noise, no drama. Just nice chips.
Thanks!
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