JD2 recommends a min wall thickness of 0.083" for your 3.5" radius die set. Stepping up to 4.5" radius drops their min wall thickness recommendation to 0.058". I'm assuming that is for mild steel tube, but would make bending stainless or aluminum easier as well. McMaster sells two different...
I would do those above the frame on my Hossfeld using the bending dog setup and a reduced diameter pin. The center pin is 1" diameter, but they sell quite a few options that have the top 1" or 2" (on an extra long pin) turned down to various diameters.
I use safety wire pliers to twist the MIG wire after clipping a length off the spool to straighten it. Hold one end in the vise, the other end with the pliers and give it several twists. Yielding the wire just a bit keeps it straight.
I've been using this in my welder for a few years after I needed to keep it in an unheated space:
https://www.mcmaster.com/7888A23/
Much cheaper than the Miller coolant. I haven't had any ill effects from it.
At my last house I had 400 amp service. It was 350 mcm aluminum wire to the meter base, where it split 200/200 between the house and the shop with 4/0 aluminum conductors. The county electrical inspector spec'd the wire sizes. It was a lot of runaround to speak to the correct person to get this...
The black residue is some sort of rust preventative...I'm guessing asphalt based. It will come off with use or wiping with LPS-2 or WD40 or similar. I keep my Hossfeld tooling coated with Fluid Film when I'm not using it to prevent rust.
Interesting stuff. I knew the pins and frames were heat treated. I don't think it's an issue until you start pushing the limits of the machine. If you compare a Hossfeld to a JD2 bender of equivalent capacity, everything on the JD2 is larger/thicker except the center pin is 1" on both. I don't...
Woolf Aircraft shows 3/4" x 0.065" wall tube elbows at a 1" centerline radius. That is certainly mandrel bent, which would be a huge investment in equipment to do in house, but they do contract bending.
Hossfeld sells a 3/4" tube die that is 1-7/8" centerline radius which bends 0.065" wall mild...
The hard lines are flared stainless with standard tube nuts and sleeves. Nothing fancy.
I had the JD2 for about 15 years before I got the Hossfeld. It is better for larger tube (1-1/4" and up). I got the Hossfeld because I was doing prototype work for a client that required a bunch of odd bends...
Thank you! I also have a JD2 bender and I did the usual thing for that where all of the tooling hangs on bars welded to the stand. There are so many more small pieces with the Hossfeld stuff that it made sense to keep it all in drawers. Things got a little out of hand when I couldn't find a tool...
Thank you!
The fittings are #6 JIC (3/8" tube) with tube nuts and sleeves. Here is a photo of the complete setup. I did include a limit switch for doing repeat work. It will be especially handy when using the feed-along tooling for large radius stuff.
@metalmagpie has it. It's a 2" bore by 15" stroke. I went ahead with their cylinder because a 14" might not allow full 90 degree bends in tubing, but a 16" may not retract far enough to get material in the dies. I haven't tried either of those cases to know if it's actually an issue, though.
I bought the bender parts and cylinder from Hossfeld and sourced my own pump, solenoid, etc. The cylinder is an odd length, so buying theirs ensures it will work properly with all of the tooling. I went with a solenoid valve and foot pedal to keep hands-free operation. The majority of the...
The manual is pretty good. It has photos of the different setups and will call out the limitations. If you respect the limits in the manual and set the tooling up correctly, I don't think you can go too far wrong.
I second the need to bolt the machine to the floor to use it manually. I had mine...
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