I believe Stanko is a generic name for all the machines exported from Russia (perhaps elsewhere in the USSR). From what I have seen they are quite good machines, not super refined but very robust and leaning heavily on the technology "acquired" at the end of the second world war from Germany. So...
If you plan on scraping the adapter for alignment you will want to use gray iron rather than ductile iron. (scraping ductile iron is no fun). Otherwise it really doesn't matter.
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Not a great plan I think. If anything aluminum would load up with grit and act like a lap. I also just think it wouldn't work well as a half nut
With a bit of cleaning an iron or bronze nut and the lead screw will last decades. You could go with low friction plastic like Igus but that is all...
I don't like anything like Windex as it can cause rust on tools, same with alcohol. Windex also doesn't work well with real blue (oil based). Any oil based solvent should be fine, I use white sprits, I guess in the states that is "mineral sprits", not so different from lighter fluid.
As far as I understand the production process what matters for the stand is that the plate is supported in the same locations as it was supported by when lapped in the factory. Johann Fischer for example will produce the plate based on whatever points you desire. (within reason) It is...
I don't know anything about those (nor can I find anything) , as for a new, somewhat less expensive alternative you can talk to www.renz-eiro.de/verkauf-renz-elektronik-schaber.phpin Germany. There is nothing magic about Biax, there is no reason another company (such as Renz) could make a viable...
To me the logical place to start is a full disassembly of the machine to see what the problem actually is.
If finances are important you are not going to want to buy new parts, even if they are available.
Just do a good evaluation of the issues and then find a way to repair it (unless you...
You will need silver soldered blades (either Biax or self made), it depends on the size of the ways but probably 10mm wide, maybe as thin as 6mm. The blades are usually sharpened on just one side and rounded over on the other to make them thinner. You also need to make sure there is a relief...
If the spindle is bad, the rest of the machine will most likely be worn to death. I am sure it is possible to just have a bad spindle but wear/abuse seems to be generally uniform from what I have seen.
I would suggest finding the best condition and most well equipment machine you can afford...
As far as I have seen, other than little machines like aciera f1 you should find standard angular contact bearings in spindles of Swiss and German mills.
The loads and speeds of a manual mill are rather moderate, if needed you could use standard grade (high quality) bearings and it will work...
Perhaps you can switch between delta and star (I can never remember which way) and run it on normal 3 phase? I have had a few machines that could be changed like that (just move some jumpers in the terminal box where the cable comes in). Otherwise a stepdown transformer would work. I don't...
While they may not be the ideal carbide compound it works ok to grind large milling inserts into the desired shape. You just need to grind the surfaces and sliver solder them onto a blade and off you go. For the hobbyist getting started it is good to remember much scraping was done with carbon...
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