Is Rustlick really a good option for machine coolant?

[WakelessFoil]

We have been using Rustlick around the shop for some time now and it definitely gets the job done. I come home everyday smelling like it!

Water soluble machine coolant has it's obvious benefits, but sometimes I get the feeling that it's a bit harsh on precision tools when is sits and collects on surfaces. Is there anything better out there? What is your go to for machine coolant?

-Justin

 

[Donkey Hotey]

Water soluble machine coolant has it's obvious benefits, but sometimes I get the feeling that it's a bit harsh on precision tools when is sits and collects on surfaces.

I'm not taking that bait until you expand on what gave you the impression your existing stuff is harsh on tools.

 

[BajaFire]

Have you tried using Moore #3 Jig Grinder?

 

[BajaFire]

I think I might know what the OP is onto. I use Cimstar 540 from CIMCool (which is a blue-raspberry flavored coolant). If it sits on my vises/tools overnight, it leaves a gummy blue-green residue of leftover gunk which can be difficult to remove if it latches into the surface (e.g. after a rough milling operation).

 

[Joe Gwinn]

I use Rustlick WS-5050 all the time, but it does need to be fairly concentrated to avoid staining iron surfaces like under fixtures and the like. It also gets old, and should be replaced from time to time.

 

[DavidScott]

Trim 585xt is my favorite at the moment. The coolant doesn't create much of a film when it dries on the table and washes right of with a little coolant in the morning, but it has removed the paint on some of the covers on my new Brother. It is not attacking the white or blue paint, just some covers around the Z-axis and rotating table. I keep it at 8%, it is about 20 months old and other than emulsifying the packing oils which then coat everything when it dries it is fine. I don't do anything to it like remove tramp oil, there is none on top to remove, or a bubbler, and it can sit for a few weeks at a time.

 

[Donkey Hotey]

I'll post it for the 353rd time: the Blaser Vasco line. I was just at a friend's shop yesterday. Haas VF-5. Sits for months at a time with no use, then makes parts for two days, then parked again. No air bubbler, nothing. The current coolant charge is at least 4-5 years old. No stink. No rust. I pulled a Kurt vise off the table that had been there at least 3 years. A little black staining that will fade in a month. No corrosion on the way covers. No damage to the paint.

I'd top it up with distilled water, adjust the concentration and run with it right now but, the machine may be moving soon and didn't want to increase the gallons of 'waste' to be pumped out of it. Downside: expensive. Upside: low toxicity, good lubricity. Residue rinses off with water. Nothing needs scraping or scrubbing.

 

[Houdini]

Have tried a few brands, all semi synth, wont run full synth, I prefer Oemeta Novamet 910.

Machines are super clean, no rust, doesn't stain 7075.

A larger difference than most,
They have ISO way lube, and tapping fluids that are coolant oil based so you don't get tramp oil.
this is a bigger deal with a box way macheen.

Also they have HYCUT where the chemicals and the oil are separate, so you can monitor and add oil or chemicals separately.

So if your running high percentage, with a lot of carry out on the oils side, but your sump has enough chemical to neuter you,
then you can just add oil.

I haven't seen anyone else doing these things, been running this for over 10 years now.

Everyone has their opinion though.

 

[WakelessFoil]

Thank you all for replies. I am sure this has been discussed but finding relevant material in this forum can sometimes feel like a wild goose chase! I will look into all the suggestions given here and see what works best for us.

I'm not taking that bait until you expand on what gave you the impression your existing stuff is harsh on tools.

Bait? Hm? Someone else already pointed it out but Rustlick does leave a gooey and sticky residue on many things it touches. It often stains things like vises and parallels, and fouls easily after a year. Just curious if there's something better.

 

[WakelessFoil]

Have you tried using Moore #3 Jig Grinder?

We have one in the shop. Have not put it to use, yet...

 

[empower]

qualichem 251c or go home!

 

[awander]

I use Rustlick WS 50/50 and I have no problems with it.

 

[Blaser Swisslube]

We have been using Rustlick around the shop for some time now and it definitely gets the job done. I come home everyday smelling like it!

Water soluble machine coolant has it's obvious benefits, but sometimes I get the feeling that it's a bit harsh on precision tools when is sits and collects on surfaces. Is there anything better out there? What is your go to for machine coolant?

-Justin

It may be possible for some coolants to cause corrosion and staining when left on surfaces, another cause can be amount of salts dissolved in the water used in the coolant. If the water has a high chloride content it can cause corrosion, other salts can leave residues. If you have any interests in giving Blaser a try, we can get you in touch with your local sales rep. A water quality test is normally done before recommending a product.