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  1. M

    Drill type for drilling 3/16" hole thru 1/4" thick rust scale sandwiched between .062" steel sheet.

    OT I've seen 1/2" of solid scale swelling between bolted together angle iron in fire escapes. Never thought scale that thick was possible.
  2. M

    Drill type for drilling 3/16" hole thru 1/4" thick rust scale sandwiched between .062" steel sheet.

    Today (day after) my back and arms are feeling it. My thumb, nothing. (I play piano LOL)
  3. M

    Drill type for drilling 3/16" hole thru 1/4" thick rust scale sandwiched between .062" steel sheet.

    Did slow, Used original Cool Tool, can't lean drilling up into frame of car on lift (!). Because of limited up pressure, did a 7/64 pilot hole then dropped to 5/64. The best load I could generate was fingers wrapped around suspension coil spring, pushing drill with my thumb. Used up about 8...
  4. M

    Drill type for drilling 3/16" hole thru 1/4" thick rust scale sandwiched between .062" steel sheet.

    Rust scale will stop an ordinary twist drill in its tracks. I suspect rust scale would behave like ceramic tile. CARBIDE: I think a carbide non-hammer masonry bit might do it, but don't know the steel. DIAMOND: There are diamond drills but my only experience was 1/32" dia diamond coated...
  5. M

    Blake Co-Ax Indicator: Disassembly and Stiff Explanation possibly

    I'll call them up and see what they offer.
  6. M

    Blake Co-Ax Indicator: Disassembly and Stiff Explanation possibly

    Update, I did the steel wool polish but it was SLOW, in fact I sort of gave up. It does not spin freely, but turns easily by hand, BUT it is not free enough for the spring to move the shaft in the bushings. That was some years ago LOL. I was cleaning up and ran across it again, this time...
  7. M

    AXA or 0XA for a South Bend 9" (Model C I think)

    Turns out the T-nut and stud from my square Enco 4-sided turret tool post work just fine holding the AXA. The stud is significantly smaller in diameter so "loose" in the AXA bore - still it fastens down pretty sturdy. I'll make some bushings/sleeves - could probably order them (the stud is...
  8. M

    AXA or 0XA for a South Bend 9" (Model C I think)

    Yes, I know what you mean. My chuck needs to come apart (I never plumbed a blow gun to keep at the lathe)
  9. M

    AXA or 0XA for a South Bend 9" (Model C I think)

    I ordered the 11pc deluxe BoStar. Still going to see if I can use the OE Lantern nut plate with a bolt or stud. Could make bushings to center smaller bolt. Or turn the right diameter bolt and thread end for OE T-nut. Will see when I get it. Maybe as project use that SB basic milling...
  10. M

    AXA or 0XA for a South Bend 9" (Model C I think)

    So you're using the knurling tool like a sort-of follower rest? Knurling: that seemed to be something done 75 years ago at least, dealing with worn shafts. Knurling valve guides was a definite thing. Not done nowadays. The knurling tool I'd probably never use (I think there were a couple...
  11. M

    AXA or 0XA for a South Bend 9" (Model C I think)

    To AXA owners: do you always have not enough tool holders? The only reason I can think for milling the bottom plate is that there is something special about the tool post bolt/stud. What am I missing?
  12. M

    AXA or 0XA for a South Bend 9" (Model C I think)

    To those that have the AXA on their SB 9 lathe: were you able to use your compound t-slot sliding plate and bolt with the AXA - especially Chinese which comes with a large thick plate which does not fit (I don't have a mill other than the cumbersome milling attachment for the SB.)
  13. M

    AXA or 0XA for a South Bend 9" (Model C I think)

    Been looking for best deal and even if buying direct from China, no real savings, so I'm pretty sure I'm going with BoStar - the mega 11-pc AXA for $155 + $16 shipping https://www.ebay.com/itm/281827797886 They 9 pc and even smaller that would meet my needs, but you can never have too many tool...
  14. M

    AXA or 0XA for a South Bend 9" (Model C I think)

    I've got down to 1/4" too - I have a collection of old stuff - lots of fancy complex hand ground HSS stuff that I'll never use.
  15. M

    AXA or 0XA for a South Bend 9" (Model C I think)

    Yeah, the 9 is definitely a light lathe. Didn't know about the 1S holder, it's nice because I also have 5/8 tooling that now I could use. LOL, I'm 71 with issues and the amount of work I'll be doing is like.... virtually nil. But I always wanted to upgrade my ENCO turret - I'm tired of...
  16. M

    AXA or 0XA for a South Bend 9" (Model C I think)

    I'm thinking the same thing, no alternative really. Was concerned about using 1/2" tools (I have lots of HSS and brazed carbide) I was looking at dimensions. My 9c is 1" from top of compound to chuck centerline. The AXA tool holder will just fit a 1/2" tool where the top of the 1/2"...
  17. M

    AXA or 0XA for a South Bend 9" (Model C I think)

    Thanks all, I'm going to do the measurements of the AXA and distance from compound to center, but just looking at the Aloris dimensions, seems like the AXA will be it. I will measure and report back here. What I may not report back is the cheap POS I'll buy to make my bushings, pins and...
  18. M

    Silver soldering (actually brazing?) bandsaw blades - what do I need?

    50 years ago, old German master craftsman, machinist, genius sheet metal auto body welder, oxy-acetylene welded his bandsaw blades. Butt joint, no filler. I have to make a blade for my recently acquired 14" Walker-Turner, will probably o-a. 5/16" deep 32 tpi
  19. M

    AXA or 0XA for a South Bend 9" (Model C I think)

    MACHINE: It's a light duty, flat belt drive, back gears, change gears, longitudinal feed only (no cross feed) - I think that's a Model C USAGE: Hobby, garage, cars: Use it most to make bushings - nothing beyond caliper measurement precision. Want to use 1/2" tooling (wouldn't mind hogging...
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