There are a bunch of variables, but I find the Biax easier to control with very short strokes and faster for small details like dovetails. The time it takes very much depends on the starting condition and the accuracy you are aiming for.
In general it seems that most people starting out try to...
As mentioned before scoring and breaking is an option. I know a guy who cut up an old metal lathe for reuse (so very similar application) using an angle grinder to score/cut and breaking what you can with a hammer. It is still a mess and a pain in the rear and you need a really big powerful...
I think it would be really unpleasant to machine after flame cutting, it cuts easily with saws of various types, even using abrasive cut off disks work quite well although they make a huge mess.
I have worked with plenty of old "reclaimed" iron and it is generally stable enough as is but I...
Spindle design is no joke, but for an inexpensive manual (low speed) machine it isn't that big of a deal. As mentioned two angular contract bearings at the nose and one in the opposite direction is a standard solution. If you draw up the current configuration that would be helpful in...
Scraping can be more accurate than planing or low quality grinding and it is easier for difficult to fixture parts. The oil retention may also be better than grinding but for home/light use that isn't going to honestly matter all that much. Scraping also doesn't introduce fixturing distortion or...
It is probably an off the shelf motor from another tool (as that is Biax's way) but one from so long ago finding it is going to be difficult I think. You might get lucky with a google image search/google lens but chances are you need to do a retrofit of some sort. (I would cut off the pinion and...
I think you need to shorten your strokes, that is one of the many things that a power scraper makes much easier. You want the width of the stroke about the same as the length.
Also a 60mm radius should be enough for now, 40mm is getting small which makes things more difficult and can cut too...
yes it is the same. I have used a few different batches of it and the "large" pieces of pigment just were not expectable, even for rough scraping. Could be some luck of the draw. I also have no interest in using corrosive cleaning products (glass cleaner) on my machines so the "ease" of cleaning...
I have done plenty of scraping and never used the cannode I had on the shelf, it just doesn't work as well as the real thing. My understanding is that it is used in courses as it is somewhat easier to clean-up but in practice you will not find a professional using it. Just get proper Prussian...
Hi everyone I need a few prototype parts and the guys I am working for suggested we try one of these online services such as Xometry or Protolabs. These are one-off smallish milled aluminum parts, nothing super exciting but not entirely straight forward either. Nothing super time critical, we...
If either the tailstock ram or base is moving when you lock or unlock it I would suggest you need to work on those parts. The neither of the rams on my lathes show any movement when locked (as in going from locked to unlocked when checked with a 1 micron indicator). With the base of the...
Those are really interesting, I "need" a 2 axis setup, and then I need an application for it :) I studied physics for my undergraduate degree and have always liked lasers and optics but thought interferometers were just far out of budget.
How difficult/expensive is it to get the mirrors...
That does look clean for a very old machine, typically the issues are with wear on the sliding parts but I think the story about it sitting on the shelf might be true. I would be a bit concerned the motor windings will go bad just from age. If that happens I would adapt a new variable speed...
This is quite the mystery, please do report back if you find him.
The moose does limit the area he could be from (to the Rockies and most northern states). Can't say I have ever seen a moose in the the places I have lived in the States and have maybe seen two in 10 years living in Norway...
You have an email David.
A small world indeed, my workshop and project houses are on the French side of the Pyrenees, about two and a half hours by car from Manresa (although it isn't so far in a straight line those roads are not very fast). I will let you know when I am down there next if...
You should wire the VFD to the motor directly without switches etc in line. I did this with one of my machines before I moved to a location with 3 phase and it wasn't so hard to setup. (I had a Schaublin 102 and a Rumag mill in the basement of my rented apartment in Frogner in Oslo which was...
That looks like an interesting machine.
Location would be helpful here.
That picture is in Europe so if it is your machine I would look into paying for the 3phase upgrade if at all possible. In the US I would suggest a rotary phase converter. If you can't get three phase then rewiring...
I don't remember exactly but I do know I used the DRO and came back to the same Z for each setup. I think I might have done one side, flipped it and then done the other (and maybe back again) it turned out within easy scraping range in the end.
I did once mill a special 48in straight edge on my Schaublin 13 which has an x travel of around 12inches but I don't recommend that :) https://photos.app.goo.gl/vfRk4ZvJ53LSHGL28
If this guy in the UK is following this thread you should get in touch with a machine rebuilder like Clive Blacksheep [email protected]
This is an obvious contact in the UK but as he is not part of "Club Richard" Richard wouldn't suggest him.
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