Hmm, the problem was then not failing to switch the wires, the problem was bypassing the centrifugal switch, or the switch being bad. I've been staring at the diagram on the side of the motor, and I cannot figure out how it could have been bypassed. Are the black and red wires you refer to...
Cad- I think your wiring diagram leaves L2 always connected to T1, which is fine as long as you have (and use) another means of disconnect like a plug.
'T' is typical nomenclature for terminal, though these are often just simple wires on the motor side. You will have to extend 5, 8 and 1 from the motor to the switch. The other wires at the motor should be joined per the 230 diagram on the motor. Note that the diagram was specific to Cad's...
When a dual voltage motor is run in high voltage mode, the two run windings must be placed in series, that happens at the 2+3 junction. The start winding then cannot go between L1 and L2, it must be placed in parallel with one of the two run windings. Interestingly, this means there are two ways...
So here's a way to wire it- modify the jumpers on the switch to be 'L' shaped (blue wires), and bring the line from the wall into the center upper and lower terminals. This will properly switch off both phases in the off position. The middle terminal of the switch will connect one end of the...
That is a standard 3 pole, double throw switch, with jumper wires pre-installed. You can rewire some of those jumpers and make this switch work with 220 single phase. I'll draw something up.
I like the balance weights on the hanging faceplate. I assume that was used on the outboard end of the lathe, though I would expect to see a pedestal for a rest.
Look around in the shop for a set of letter stamps. Punch the maker's name on the end of the lathe. The lathe will live on longer than than the cabinet or its contents, and this will keep the maker's name alive too.
Can you post a picture of the threading chart on the front of the gearbox? I can try to work up some options. Also, I want to point out that you can use Module gears instead of DP, if all the gears on the end of the lathe are changed. That might actually be cheaper for you in europe.
Hmm, I thought the factory metric transposing set for the 16" was a 127/120, not 127/100 like the smaller lathes. That said, there are smaller (cheaper) gearsets which give excellent approximations of metric pitches. They are good enough for fasteners, but not for cutting leadscrews.
Regarding Metric threading- This lathe has an imperial gearbox, so it does not metric thread natively. However, The gears which drive the gearbox can be changed to allow metric threading. Remove the end cover and take a picture of what you have under there.
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