We've used the solder/shrink tube connectors in the OP before. Typically if the joint was small making a typical crimp or twist type connection impractical, there was minimal space for extra insulation/terminal hardware, the connection needed to be somewhat flexible or fluid/dirt/weather...
I'd take it to a pro, but one thing to add is that these old clocks do better when kept in continuous use. When allowed to sit, the joints will rust or tarnish and collect dust, and just a little bit of that can slow it down and stop it. Once a horologist has it cleaned and adjusted, keep it...
Looks like an old bench micrometer. Used same as a regular mic, but as a bench tool for convenience when doing 1000's of parts. The design looks pre-1900, but it could also just be an in-house made tool for a specific task. Even when looking at castings, it wasn't a big deal for some of the...
As of now I'm just looking at making enough bushings to complete my own set using some material drops, but If someone made repo's I'd think they could sell on eBay or similar. I think the mentality of buying a more complete set is the most financially sound, but it doesn't fix that there's lots...
Not sure I've seen replacements for those. There likely isn't much material to work with as even if you glue or stitch another piece over the joint, it'll be stiffer and thicker than before, won't fold as well, and likely will crack beside the repair soon. I have a set of those gauges in my...
With the motor wiring, a couple options would be to use flexible metal conduit as the ground and be sure you have solid metal to metal connections, which would get you down to 6 wires, or you can buy multi-wire cable like this at McMaster. They take up less space than having to run individual...
Having sorted a lot of our shops measuring tools, including replacing the missing bits like wrenches, standards, and cases to keep the sets together, I've found that often companies like Starrett would have different quality tiers with how they sold their tools. Same tools, just in different...
I think the design of a steel hub mating to the printed gear is important as we don't want the next problem to be the gear shearing away from the hub. A square (or woodruff in this case) key is not ideal for a plastic piece like this. We could also change the design to key the plastic gear to...
EmGo, thank you for your insight as it seems you have a lot of gear manufacturing knowledge. Please remember you're in the additive manufacturing sub forum here though. 3D printing gears successfully is not a new thing, though it is for me. Are they equal to cut gears, likely no, but I'm trying...
The red spreads a little like Canode where it takes some trial and error to get the right thickness, possibly because of how thin it is out of the jar and how fine the powder is. It works, but I like the blue better. The red would be better as a highlighter like yellow canode. I think the blue...
I "found my round-to-it" and started mixing the pigments I bought. For both the red lead and Prussian Blue I used heavy way oil (vactra 4) as a carrier as it's on hand and fitting for the application and both mixed spectacularly simply. My assumption is that the way oil carrier would be easy to...
A composite steel/plastic gear certainly is a possibility, though I fear the added parts, features, assembly, etc. would make it more expensive to produce and the original solid phenolic gear more affordable. Not that a steel hub is a complicated piece to introduce, but we're going from a part...
Here are a couple of our first in-use failures. Both times with the machine running we ran a leather strap through the front gears 3-4 times without damage, until on the last time the strap jammed the gears causing the back gear (under the steel gear) to shear away it's keyway.
In these...
I've been needing to post an update on this project we're been trying out a couple of filaments for one of the phenolic long tooth gears.
We started with Polycarbonate Carbon Fiber and found that it prints smoothly and holds it's shape well, but isn't quite as durable as phenolic. It very well...
3D Printing Gears
Shamelessly cross-posting my thread on this subject of application and longevity of phenolic gears and if 3D prints are a viable replacement.
We actually have made some progress in one application 3D printing some gears that were phenolic. I need to post an update there.
This is what we have.
It has a pilot that fits into a hole in the table to push off of, and the steel knob on top can be pulled up to disengage a half nut inside for "rapid" position setting.
Yours looks like it might be something similar, but not off a DoAll. I've seen those same knobs on...
I actually bought a used one from a PMer a little while back so have shelved this project, but I'm sure someone will buy it. It's much much handier than the old chewed up piece of plywood we used to use, making it very easy to control pressure and direction.
I'm no materials engineer by any means, but part of the issue as I understand it between steel and iron is that steel simply has the capacity to distort and bend and keep that damaged shape while still being structurally stable. You could drop it and it would look fine but be warped a few tenths...
Delta Rockwell used to make some very good equipment. While they've always been a bit of a "box store" brand, up until probably the 60's or 70's they had some decent industrial grade lines. We've got a late 50's lathe that's right on par with our South Bend Heavy 10, and several other sanders...
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