T’s got to do with the spindle bearing(s) closer to the nose. The work can wobble together with the chuck between the rear spindle bearing(s) and the tailstock center (bearing).
The more positive the rake angle the less pressure between tool and work. Under negative angles the tool scrapes, at positive angles it cuts. Material removal happens more easily but the tool becomes weaker because narrower between chipping surface and back relief. At a certain point you want to...
With that holder you have a negative back rake angle. It’s for roughing. To finish to a clean surface change that to zero or even positive. The side edge angle should be bigger. Speed: the material can be turned at up to 90 m/min. or 300 sfm, so at 100 mm diameter 286 rpm max. Depth of cut not...
I have asked about salt in the streets because common salt is a chlorine compound, sodium chloride. Get rid of everything chlorine and or fluorine compound. Muriatic acid is your enemy.
Such discussions are strange to us. In this country a mechanician who works for a wage does not own any tools. Everything belongs to the firm. Screwdrivers, wrenches, millers, insert holders, measuring equipment, even the most modest rule is not my affair. We don’t have toolboxes.
You mean to say 0.00012 inches? That is too shy. The tool rubs instead of that it cuts. Give ten times more. Surface speed should also be higher, in the region of 160 ft/min.
I think people need to learn to read continuous text again and to write meaningful text as well. The whole quality and security checking is worthless in a world of illiterates. Like Boeing, it’s Böing, dammit, a German family name. The ö is not pronounced o.
As of late I had a Paillard-Bolex H-16 on my bench whose mechanism was jammed. Nothing would budge. Upon disassembly I found the spring clutch fork pinched between a gear of the clutch group and the clutch control arbor. The two screws by which the fork mount should be attached were present but...
Exactly what I wanted to propose. If a set screw corrodes you have more trouble than with a pin that you can hammer out. The classical (European) way is a grooved taper pin, fitted.
To work the outside I clamp parts inside. You have a bore, so either put the work on a shaft or directly between centres. You even have a keyway that allows to locate the work in rotation. Possibility is given to gather blanks on a shaft, if you prefer to have the gears separated from the...
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