Stick a piece of material larger than the tailstock quill in the chuck and turn it down till
it's exactly the same diameter as the quill. Run the tailstock up to the the turned stock
and then run a dial indicator along the top of the quill and onto the part in the chuck. Do
this with the quill...
You talking about me? I thought it was a legit question. I think the term "vintage"
gets used way too much these days and I sure don't buy the idea that something
20 years old is vintage. Fifty years maybe? But not 20...
Yes. A lathe is a precision tool that needs to be adjusted each time it is moved. You had it dialed in
so you know what it's capable of but once you move it you must re-align it. Start by getting it as level
as possible (with a precision level--a laser level is no where near to being accurate...
I've got the same beast. I've tapped smaller holes with it OK but M24 is getting up there in
size. Biggest problem would be just holding the tap without it spinning. Not gonna do that
with a regular drill chuck.
If the parts have to go back to the fab shop how are "they" going to tap he...
We've made lots of custom parts for cars over the years and when we needed
dimensions we just grabbed the part (or parts) and reverse engineered it. It's not
rocket science.
If you need the dimension from the centreline of the axles to the carrier face just
machine up a piece of stock that...
Ha! I've been vindicated. I've always cut keyseats in shafts using three passes (one down the middle
about .015 short of full depth and then one down each side to finish). Always thought I was being overly
fussy, especially when all the Youtube videos of guys doing it in one pass started...
What holes specifically? As far as I know you can go to the Diacro site and download
a manual for that machine. Would be the first place I'd start.
We've got a #3 but it's in storage right now. I guess if you were stuck I could arrange to
dig it out and take some measurements...
I've used quite a bit of DOM over the years and I'd have to say that when you're talking size for size it's
not going to fit, at least not consistently. For a one off project you can measure your material and find
parts that will fit together but if you're talking a production situation I...
I've used "Top Notch" style threading and grooving inserts for years and I don't remember ever having
a problem like that. Haven't done a ton of SS but I've done some and if there's a problem it's usually the
material itself. Can you grab a piece of "known" material and see how it works...
What's wrong with using coordinates to lay out the pattern? Machinery's Handbook has tables with
coordinates for a large number of bolt circles. There's a bit of math, you have to multiply the coordinate
by the circle diameter but that's pretty easy. I do it all the time. In the time it took...
For sure, but two to three times the price.
As for a lathe, in that size range I would look for a 14 x 42 rather than a 13 x 42. I think you'll find
that the 14" machines are more common and you'll be surprised how often that extra inch will
come in handy (says the guy who bought a 13" instead...
Yup, the blue zirconia belts are really good. We use a european brand (which I think is better
than anything Norton has to offer) and get good service and life out of them.
We have a 6" x 48" Grizzly sander which is totally reliable, rugged and set up so you can easily
change belts. We've had...
When you say Lincoln 255 do you mean Wirematic 255? If so that's a great mig welder. We had one for over
20 years--just sold it recently because we're getting ready to shut down our shop.
The Dynasty will stick weld that just fine but why piss around with stick when you've got mig? If it...
Why? If you're willing to pay they should make the parts exactly the way you want them. Most of the
suppliers around here will burn parts to your specs. If all you want is quick, dirty and cheap that's what
they'll give you but if you want a better finish with no divots they'll do that...
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