I'm considering a full CNC conversion for this machine. The frame is about twice the size of a regular Bridgeport and should have enough rigidity.
The pulley that slides up and down depending on the speed range needs a new bushing. (I forget the correct name of it.) The two drive belts look...
The motor data plate says 220/380v and the orange sticker on the head says 240 volts.
However, work has been done on this machine and it is not in a stock configuration any more.
The power downfeed doesn't work.
Looks like a bad contactor. It sparks and then eventually closes as the motor gets up to speed.
Several of the small glass fuses are blown and a lack of a bulb in the indicator light on the main panel 'might' be a problem.
The knee motor seems to be getting power but nothing is happening.
I now have a Jiangdong HX30 milling machine and have no information about it. A google search doesn't seem to find any information but I was told that these machines were imported and resold under different badges but I don't know the names.
It is a 240v 3 phase machine using a CAT40 tool holder...
There is a fairly steady 45v AC across F1 (Neg probe) and F2 (Positive probe) and a -0.5v I thought the DC might be a measurement issue but it is very repeatable.
SO which ones are the filter capacitors?
Ok, I got the message, don't touch the relay! (This is why I asked first)
I got 3v across F1/F2
We replaced the two tubes that are glowing blue in the pic below with spares and began the tuning procedure yesterday. (I am not at the monarch's location so I can't check the numbers) The new tubes...
OK, so that may be the root of our problem. That relay is not closing at all.
What are the risks of briefly closing it manually to see if that causes the spindle to turn properly?
We began this procedure and the voltage began around -45 volts. As the minimum voltage pot was turned it would climb to around +35 v and then the breaker would trip. The spindle started very slowly. The pot was 2/3 of the way to maximum before the breaker tripped.
Well that is a strong possibility but there could be something in line with the tube that may be throwing the circuit out of balance. The heater coil on the old tube tests bad, but the replacement has comparable resistance to the known working tube. If it is an adjustment problem the two tubes...
The cap unscrews and looks like a nut that someone filled in on one side only. I was trying to be more specific about which part of the contact I was talking about. The other side looks a lot like a piano hammer.
Where should I measure the field supply voltage?
What material are the contactor nuts made from? I had assumed brass but these seem to be white. Far too heavy to be aluminum unless it is some weird alloy.
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