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WTS T-303 and T-304 Stainless Round Stock
1 pc. 0.75" cold finish stainless T-304 at 24" long 1 pc. 1.25" cold finish stainless T-303 at 24" long 6 pcs. 0.625" cold finish stainless T-303 at 72" long I have the metallurgical test reports for all of it. If you ordered this stock from onlinemetals.com right now it would cost you...- mhutchinson
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- Replies: 0
- Forum: Tooling, Parts and Accessories For Sale or Wanted
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Use of Marking Dye/Layout Fluid on Granite Surface Plates?
Canode makes a water-soluble spotting dye that I have read a little about. From what I have read so far it sounds like the way to go for a simple, easy-to-clean fluid.- mhutchinson
- Post #7
- Forum: General
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Use of Marking Dye/Layout Fluid on Granite Surface Plates?
First, some pertinent background: I'm not a machinist and I'm not using this surface plate for machining work. I'm mostly a woodworker but I do play with metal sometimes, mainly for gunsmithing. While precision is my goal, I certainly don't need the kind of precision seen in a professional...- mhutchinson
- Thread
- Replies: 6
- Forum: General
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Rust: Chemistry, Prevention, Removal, and Conversion
On the note of abrasives...it seems to me that, in situations where you want to retain the patina or bluing on a piece, the best solution is a very fine wire brush or wheel. The best I've seen are the ones used by gunsmiths for rust bluing such as this: GROBET FILE CO. OF AMERICA INC .25"...- mhutchinson
- Post #21
- Forum: Antique Machinery and History
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Rust: Chemistry, Prevention, Removal, and Conversion
On the note of abrasives...it seems to me that, in situations where you want to retain the patina or bluing on a piece, the best solution is a very fine wire brush or wheel. The best I've seen are the ones used by gunsmiths for rust bluing such as this: GROBET FILE CO. OF AMERICA INC .25"...- mhutchinson
- Post #20
- Forum: Antique Machinery and History
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Rust: Chemistry, Prevention, Removal, and Conversion
Haha! Spoken like a true chemistry professor. I suppose red rust is, thermodynamically speaking, the most stable.- mhutchinson
- Post #19
- Forum: Antique Machinery and History
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Rust: Chemistry, Prevention, Removal, and Conversion
Thanks for the input, John! Dr. Langford's website looks like it will be a valuable resource. And on the note of chloride ions--I didn't realize this actually but given the road salt example, it makes sense. And if it is the case with a lot of the old tools I am working with, then gentle...- mhutchinson
- Post #17
- Forum: Antique Machinery and History
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Rust: Chemistry, Prevention, Removal, and Conversion
My method so far-if I'm trying to save the patina-is the human-powered, elbow-greased version of that. Steel wool and fine wire brushes basically. So far that is the best method I've found.- mhutchinson
- Post #16
- Forum: Antique Machinery and History
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Rust: Chemistry, Prevention, Removal, and Conversion
Thus far I've come to the same conclusion--Evaporust is by far the best product I've found but electrolysis is just as effective. While the latter does require initial investment for a good setup, it's cheaper in the long run.- mhutchinson
- Post #15
- Forum: Antique Machinery and History
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Rust: Chemistry, Prevention, Removal, and Conversion
Ah, almost forgot: a resource and a more specific question: I have read in a number of places that you can "force" a "patina" by soaking a steel object in vinegar (5% acetic acid). In my own experiments I definitely noticed a particular color to metal that was left in vinegar for a long time...- mhutchinson
- Post #2
- Forum: Antique Machinery and History
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Rust: Chemistry, Prevention, Removal, and Conversion
Good morning folks, Long-time lurker here, finally ran out of old threads to sift through. Over the months I've spent reading about these things I consistently find good information on this particular forum, so here I am, a young, curious, and enthusiastic-but also inexperienced and...- mhutchinson
- Thread
- Replies: 27
- Forum: Antique Machinery and History