Looks like a very old, overhead lifting winch. Tens of thousands of different brands of winches have been made over centuries, many were war time brands that were built in just one large production run for a company name made just for that one run. ( For liability reasons) If it works, use it! I...
One more thing to consider, I have one very large corp that I do a fair bit of work for. They have me on net 10 just because the foreman pulled some strings for me. But, they also don't make any payments one month out of each quarter for internal auditing. They've also been three months behind...
They'd likely be fodder for my 18" pedestal grinder at my shop, I haven't had the fortune to get a big belt grinder yet. but yes they'd get heavy fast.
1144 is much easier to machine, but definitely doesn't have better corrosion resistance! I run literally tons of 4140, and a few hundred pounds of 1144 annually, and stock both, but my work is primarily heavy industrial. In your situation either will be fine. And your machinist friend will...
1018, 1144, 1045, 4140, A-36 or pretty much any other steel or semi steel could be used in such a location. Being just a sleeve they endure no real load of any kind. Having had experience with those and other ag adapters, the cheapest steel is used with a cheap coating to make them store shelf...
Nothing leaves my shop without deburring, even bar stock gets a quick hit with a flap wheel or belt grinder. Way too much liability. Too often it's like handing a guy a knife blade when he's expecting a screwdriver.
I recently did a nearly identical job, but 3-7/16" shaft with a fully sheared key, made a couple rounds before coming to a stop. It was galled enough to require welding repairs to both the shaft and the coupler after disassembly.
I was able to use some heat and a Posi-Lock model 116 puller to...
That's the kind of stuff a good machinist never throws out.... Way too hard/expensive to replace later. I've got a few myself. Also Acme inserts are easy to modify into specialty grooving tools if you have extra.
I made UHMW inserts and caps for my various steady rest pads. A tad bit of high pressure grease and a chip shield. Never had even a slight scratch on a rod. Holds solid during heavy passes too. I use these pads for any finished surface, they work great!
Yep, milled then ground.
I've also found worn out HSS end mills to work quite well for custom tooling. I just turn off the remaining flute in the lathe first, usually.
Out here alloy selection is poor unless you don't mind freight costs.....
I have used limited 12xx but there's not much of it stocked around here and I don't use it enough to stock it myself.
I'll definitely keep it in mind though! Thanks for your input.
As far as the home brew broach...
I had an opportunity to choose the material for a job requiring rotary broaching in both ends of a socket, 3/8 square/ 12T-1/2" spline. I ran a 1018/1144 comparison and found the 1018 required much less force for broaching, the finish was also much nicer in the 1018.
I made my own broaches...
Heat treat oven, similar to the hardening process.
On the alloy, check your local scrap metal buyer, the yard I sell to has an XRF analyzer and can give an alloy analysis with incredible accuracy. I had them check a shaft for me before I welded it. $20 and knowledge of what I was up against...
A local mechanic has had one for years, it does have drop down sides and a nice low bottom, but he only ever used it for storage to keep things off the ground that I know of. As I recall he purchased it for hauling something that didn't pan out.
And yes, the tires are odd sized super singles...
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