Wow, that's inspiring!
We had 100+ acres in Wisconsin a long time ago and now live in the suburbs of Sacramento on 1 acre, and I hate it here. Definitely plan on selling the home this spring and will make my way to the outskirts somewhere, just not in weird California. Building a dream shop...
Got it. Just wanted to bump it up to 10tons, but it doesn't look like the effort, risk, and reward are worth it.
Man, you have some awesome machinery. Ok, I'll just buy a 10 or 20 ton.
Thanks to everyone that responded.
I completely disassembled and refurbished the machine over a two week period. Not a lot of moving parts and all the main components are metal. Would be nice if the flywheel was bigger
I have a 5 ton Benchmaster and it has a 1hp 110v motor. Wondering what you guys think about me upgrading it to a 5hp 220v and what would be the new tonnage rating?
The machine is well built and I don't see the shaft flexing or any of the parts failing and am open to giving it a try. Just...
I have a 50 ton cylinder that has scratches on the rod and it leaks. How did you fix the pimples, what does 'stoning' mean, and does it leak since the shaft diameter is slightly smaller after you removed material? Thanks.
I've used a Titanium Nitride Coated M2 HSS end mill (harbor freight) and have drilled a tun of holes in these cylinders before without issue and still use the same bit.
My center punch is the 18C from Starrett, but I can't find out what material the point is made of. It's either hardened steel...
I like this idea! I have a large cobalt drill bit set and can definitely do this and will give it a shot next weekend when the cylinders arrive. thanks!
Ah, great way to test the material. Ok, I'll give it a punch and see how rod accepts the dimple.
A drill bit bushing is a great idea. If...
I've done about 6 cylinders in the past and had zero problem using a 1/4" end mill from harbor freight. Just wanted to ask the pros if there is a better way because I will be doing more of this.
Yeah, I have to flatten 1/6" on two opposite sides of the rod anyhow, so that would work perfectly.
So just center punch a hole and this carbide tipped die drill bit should be enough?
Looks like your mentor's lesson was passed onto me as well. I almost made the mistake of buying an end mill to "drill" holes. :)
Maybe I'll try the solid carbide drill bit
Hmm, I may have been mistaken. I'm drilling through the rod of twenty pneumatic cylinders and am just realizing it is "hardened steel rod", whatever that means. It looks like stainless in the picture, but might not be. sorry for the confusion.
I've never heard of spot drilling and just found this drill bit. It's a 1/4" HSS spot drill bit and comes with in a 90 and 120 degree point. Is this what you meant, or am I off?
Thanks. Would I be able to use a 1/4" HSS twist drill bit right away, or would I need to start with a few smaller sizes?
Also, what are your thoughts on a solid carbide end mill bit?
Accuracy is not an issue. Just want a process that won't take too much time and a bit that will last a while.
Version 3 works. Was able to shear many pieces by rebuilding with tool steel.
Only problem is that the cuts are deformed. I'm done with this project and will just buy the tool brand new.
Just wondering what may have caused the deformation.
PS. the battery in my helmet is completely dead...
Got it! Almost ready to build the version 3.
1. Would a 1/2" grade-8 bolt (like in the 3D model) be strong enough to clamp the part?
2. I'll face mill an angle on the punch blade. What degree would you do? Maybe like something in the picture below or a tad bigger since my unit isn't as...
Thank you for the detailed explanation. I really appreciate it.
My power pack was set to 2,700psi but I bumped it to 3,500, which still isn't a lot compared to actual ironworkers, so I'll take it safe and design a flatter blade. Is this flat enough or should I go flatter on the punch?
My...
I found a large press break die in my shop that I bough a long time ago (won’t ever need it) and though about making the entire punch and die from it.
1. Do you think a punch entirely made of the press break die would be able to shear 2” angle with 3/16” walls, or should I buy some tool steel...
This website or its third-party tools process personal data (e.g. browsing data or IP addresses) and use cookies or other identifiers, which are necessary for its functioning and required to achieve the purposes illustrated in the cookie policy. To learn more, please refer to the cookie policy. In case of sale of your personal information, you may opt out by sending us an email via our Contact Us page. To find out more about the categories of personal information collected and the purposes for which such information will be used, please refer to our privacy policy. You accept the use of cookies or other identifiers by closing or dismissing this notice, by scrolling this page, by clicking a link or button or by continuing to browse otherwise.