Big difference between using pitbulls in a subplate where the plate is sitting on the subplate and clamping it in a vise with 40+ unsupported between the jaws. If going the vise route I'd put some jack bolts as support pads underneath the middle somewhere to cut down on the harmonics. Or Amrock...
MAG3?
If you're going to be getting rowdy with a 2" indexable cutter I'd want that thing bolted down to the table. You can put spacer bushings underneath the holes to hold the plate above the table by 1/2" or so.
We personally haven't had any issues running our royal QG65 dead length on the main spindle side. But this is useful to know in case one day it gives us issues!
As @gregormarwick mentioned above the list I linked is for screw in type indexable insert milling heads. Afaik most manufactures use a proprietary system for their exchangeable solid carbide headed endmills, though YMMV; I haven't bought enough of them to figure out if they are interchangeable...
Not sure about exchangeable headed endmills but Maritool has a list showing screw in indexable tool cross compatibility:
https://www.maritool.com/images/Indexable-Cutter-List.pdf
I think your print is wrong. My book says 1-11.5 npsf major diameter is 32.72mm which would be why your no-go is going in when you cut the thread 0.4mm larger.
Your gage pd's seem right though so I'd trust them.
Edit: Also the major diameters on plug gages don't really mean anything; they're...
You can get away with no coolant if you slow the sfm down and lube it with some oil before you start the hole. I'd spot with 140deg spot drill then peck with a 135 split point parabolic drill 8% cobalt. Peck every ~0.075". Not going to last forever though, probably only a few parts.
What's...
I agree, however your machine needs some stones to run a 1-8 form tap let alone in stainless. My guess is 1-8 form in 304 would take 150+ ftlbs to turn. Lowest torque would be spiral point tap. Though OP hasn't said what method is putting the holes in which will dictate a lot.
I'm assuming your burning the tap drill holes in? If so that's going to murder that tap. If drilling the tap drill size holes in then a spiral point tap from emuge should punch those in in one go.
You'll never get a shiny finish surfacing aluminum with the center/tip of the ball. You have effectively zero sfm at the center so its pushing and smearing more than it's cutting. Use a bull mill with a fat corner rad to surface with, that way the tangent point of the corner rad is further...
Personally I'd steer clear of a Doosan with a HH control, it's not their main control option for a reason. You have the robo's so using fanuc is already easy for you. Although it is somewhat limiting in the 5 axis department.
The best quality for price is probably going to be the Grob or Mikron. Mikron is better suited for pallet loading, but both can be outfitted with automation.
H
He's referring to the table diameter. The interference diameter doesn't really mean anything unless you plan on hanging parts off the edge of the table.
Pretty much yeah, I'd go 16mm on the shank if it'll clear but overall I think it should work since you're only cutting aluminum. Going to have to baby it a bit but It's most likely the most cost effective solution and you should be able to hit your tolerance with some tweaking.
It only has to be as long as the depth from the base of the cbore on the front side to the backside of the other (why I put the larger shoulder to fit in the front cbore). So ~1.5".
How much tolerance do you have on the 0.382 hole? If you can drill it big you can get away with 0.25 neck...
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