Success! Either beginner's luck or aluminum is easy to work with. It took very little force to push the braod through. If fact, I didn't even use the handle to pump the hydraulic. I just did it by hand so I would be sensitive to load changes. I did put the collared bushing 'upsidedown', so...
I am going to try a practice part before stoning. The stoning would be like in attached (with stone moving perpendicular to paper)? That would reduce the rake angle...
Thank you, Guys. When you stone the braoch tool, are you doing one tooth at a time, like this? Gbent, I had already ordered a broach tool or would have taken up your offer. Thanks.
Thank you for the tips/suggestions, all. It sounds like trying a few practice parts is a good idea. Guythatbrews, can you point to a diagram that shows what you mean here? “The solution is to stone a small land to decrease the rake angle a bit. A few thousandths land will do it.”. I’m not...
Some guys say they can set them up by eye (by looking at color of flame, etc.). I bought a digital combustion analyzer to do my own (and smoke tester). It sounds like you're running too rich. Have you tried opening up the air shutter more?
I did look up rotary broaching and while it is fascinating, the tooling is more expensive and it looks like you really need a CNC lathe... Thanks, Gordon.
I searched through the forum for this subject but didn't find an answer. I haven't done any broaching before, but now need to add a 1/4" width slot in an aluminum hub (steering wheel hub) for my antique car. I have a hydraulic press and have watched videos and understand the basics of what's...
Come on guys, someone here must have a machine with dial as originally installed. This catalog screen shot seems to show a bolt. Is there a permanently mounted pin (on apron) in lower hole of bracket?
Those of you who have a 9" Junior with thread dial attached as shown. Is the stud and pin arrangement like the photo below how yours is attached? I drew up the basic dimensions of this area in AutoCad and would much appreciate if I could get some feed back on where to place the holes and what...
I looked at it again after realizing that with the large, fine feed gear on there (that came with the lathe), I had no such problem. I tried cleaning up the thread gear and now it works.. Maybe a little surface rust was doing it... The other thread gears seemed to work ok too. Strange...
I did some searching on the forum but didn't find an answer to this. I finally bought some lathe change gears for my 1933 vintage 9" Junior and tried them out. I noticed that when installing the lead screw gear and tightening the nut, there was binding between the gear and lead screw bracket...
I can imagine hard maple making a good gear for this application. No doubt it would be a fun project but I think I'm going to go with one of the 3D printed ones for now. This one has the bracket that looks like the one in the 1931 catalog.
Thanks John,
That's interesting that it has a bracket cast as part of the dial body parallel to the edge of saddle. I get the feeling that isn't a very common configuration. Looks like I'm going to have to improvise....
I did some more searching and found this but I'm not sure the saddle is...
I have a 1933 vintage 9" (Junior or Heavy as I understand it) and would like to try learning to cut screw threads with it. I have change gears but still haven't acquired a thread dial yet. I notice that most of the thread dials attach with a pin into a boss on the edge of the cross feed...
Thanks guys. I came to the conclusion that I would need to 'burn' some material and experiment. I machined the die down to 2.4 R and that did achieve the desired effect; close enough at least (I had to take small steps to avoid having to buy more material to make another die; no going back if I...
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