They do discount. I get a discount, see first post. I am having real doubts that the discount is worth it with the poor performance I see out of them lately.
Would anyone know what the backplate dia. of the above chuck is? 2 piece jaws if possible. My old cushman is badly sprung at certain diameters. I'd like to save time & money by re-using the backplate if possible.
Here is the link to the Bison specs, but I cannot see the info I need...
I ran across 3 of those on an old book nipping press from around 1910 that came in for repair. That was my guess too, #16. 18 TPI. One of the screw heads was broken, and the customer wanted something they could buy if needed.
We -just- had room for 5/16, so that's what we did.
bracket at the right is the same part as the collet holder stand base. That's what I bought on the bay.
Tie rod could be made from round bar. I can get you dimensions if you need them.
I have used them for years, they are 1 days shipping away over in Atlanta, and I get a discount that makes their prices about the same as anywhere else.
I used to put in an order for several things, they'd all come from Atl. in 1 box the next day.
Now, it seems like what they have locally...
I get best results from a zero flute countersink - the ones with the hole through them. Use WD40 as a cutting lube. You're probably still going to need to hit it with a file lightly.
And what Plastikdreams said.
standardized spelling is not that recent.
George, I have always spelled it the way you spell it. But then I am 15 miles from the Atlantic, albeit the other side of said Atlantic.
the video just discusses screwdriver types - slotted, robertson, and philips.
Fillister is an old word that can mean a slot or groove. I've never seen anything but slotted fillisters (a.k.a. "Cheese head screw" but there are lots of slotted head screws that are not called "fillister head"...
If you intend on going into either welding or machining, you are going to need some sand. I.e., you can't make one effort, screw it up, and decide to move on. I've been doing this a while, and I still make mistakes. I try to learn where I went wrong, then re-do if needed and get it right.
If you have the small spindle with the 1 7/8" x 8 nose, it is a shortened MT4. Same taper, .623"/ft. I got one of the adapters linked above because the MT4 dead center stuck out further than I wanted. Lo and behold, stick the adapter in, put in an MT3 center, the point ends up just about the...
Notice how he never said "you're dumb" - he said the statement was dumb. And previous statements were also dumb.
SO you twist the words around. I'd also say typical.
I found the compound method for short tapers very hard to get accurate. I did not try the tailstock set-over for long tapers. The TA is just so convenient. I needed to make B&S 9 arbors for my horizontal mill, I left it at that setting for a long time till I needed to do something else, and...
See John's comment above re the spindle. The spindle has a 1" through hole. You may find this limiting. The 1 7/8" x 8" tooling is hard to find, I make my own backplates, I was lucky to find a full size 10" faceplate and a dog driver plate, tho these could be made on top of a self made...
As above, motors loose torque when you slow them down with a VFD. If you are cutting something large in diameter, this means you will not be able to take heavy cuts. VFD's are nice for "fine tuning" between the steps on the pulleys.
Quick and dirty checks for bed wear:
Is there a ridge you...
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