When I first turn on my series 61 and engage the clutch, the spindle RPM is much slower than it should be. Over time, the RPM increases until it correct, but this could take more than a minute. RPM may ramp up more quickly if the clutch is disengaged and then reengaged. After the machine has...
This is a 6”, 4 jaw, light weight chuck fitted with a M46-3 back plate. I have been using it on a dividing head, but no longer need it. The chuck is in good condition and shows no appreciable wear or jaw damage. It does have a couple of roughly 1/16” holes drilled into the face of the chuck as...
When I bought this lathe, the leadscrew bearings (Find # R20) were destroyed and the bearing housing (Find #s R22 and R23) was severely damaged. I have tried off the shelf bearings, and did my best to repair the housing, but nothing is keeping the crossslide from moving a few thousandths when...
Once again I have needed the ability to cut metric threads on an Imperial lathe, so I made 4 gears to be able to cut most metric threads. Using the 25T gear that was already on the lathe (top left gear in the picture below) along with the 4 aluminum gears shown in the second picture I can cut...
I am trying to repair or replace the variable speed control board on my 7ELM and I have found specs for the maximum strokes/minute, but what I need to know now is what the practical minimum number of strokes/minute might be. If the speed control allows the motor to slow too much, it could...
I have 20 books I need to move. Email me if you want one. You pay shipping (USPS book rate if they still have it)
Email me at [email protected]
ASME B5.9-1967, Spindle Noses, $5
Mechanisms and Mechanical Devices Sourcebook, 2nd edition, by Chironis and Sclater, 1996, $15
American...
I want to replace the motor bearings on the Taiwanese clone (Bridgeport) that I am doing some refurbishment on, but I cannot figure out how to remove the fixed part of the pulley and the motor shaft adapter.
The motor appears to have a sleeve on the shaft that increases its diameter and...
I guess I started wearing blue jeans about the time I started kindergarten. I will not say that they are the only pants that I ever wore, because there was a time in my high school days that I wore some polyester, and a time when I taught school or worked at NASA that I wore khakis while I was...
I want to replace my old Bridgeport with a newer Bridgeport style mill, but I want a 48" to 50" bed and I want box ways on the wye axis. I don't care if the mill is variable speed or step pulley as I am likely to use a VFD anyway, and three phase is a plus. A DRO and power feed can be added at...
This 13" D1-5 faceplate appears to be NOS as it has no scarring. It does have light rust and I can only provide two of the cam lock pins.
Shipping will be whatever it costs, but may be on the order of $50.
Email me if interested.
[email protected]
This Chinese made chuck is sold by a lot of different people, but regardless of the company they all note that it is a K72-250 chuck. I think I have used it to make two parts so it is in new condition. I can sell it as a plain back chuck, or with a D1-6 back plate. The chuck is $90 and the back...
Does anyone know what the commercial material designation (not the mil spec) and hardness are for M2 machine gun barrels? Are the threads harder than the rest of the barrel?
First let me say that I have quite a bit of lathe bed wear because the folks that owned the lathe before me, TVA, did not do enough maintenance on the lathe and the oil pump in the apron was not working. The wear on the carriage V-way is about .014" and on the rear flat it is about .007". I...
I took the apron off, removed the sump, removed the oil pump, cleaned everything, checked the oil pump to verify that it pumped (it did) and reassembled. After filling with oil, I turned the hand wheel (a lot) which should have made the pump pump oil, but I got nothing.
Suggestions?
The worm assembly on my Monarch Model 61 was worn out, and after looking at its design, I decided to make repairs and to redesign the assembly.
Before I go any further, I want to thank Cliff Holm, a member here, who sent me a worm, driver, worm wheel, and half nuts. The condition of my worm...
For the last few months I have been working to restore a 1954 Monarch Model 61 lathe and using my badly worn 1930 South Bend 16” gap bed lathe to make any parts I have needed to make using a lathe. I am about to make three fairly large bronze bushings for the worm and worm drive in the apron of...
I am looking for some absorbent pads to soak up all kinds of spills. I am not wanting the oil only pads that I have no trouble finding but something more akin to a giant paper towel. It needs to be thicker, stronger, and bigger (at least 15x17) than a paper towel, and be able to soak up oil or...
At one time, I found a post that said the oil pump filters were assembled felt/large screen/small screen or felt/small screen/large screen.
Unfortunately, I can not find that post, so I need help.
What is the order of assembly for the Bijur oil pump filter?
I have some lathe parts that I need to make that require two internal 1/4" keyways. The parts are about 1.24" ID and they need to be as hard as I can get them without having to heat treat them after machining. Hardness and toughness are important.
So, how hard can the steel be and still be...
I am in the process of reworking a nominal 14" Monarch Model 61 and have found some parts in the apron that I might could make, but I would prefer to buy good used parts. In the Model 61 parts book
http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/2103/18297.pdf
pages 28-29 these parts called the worm (N35)...
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