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10ee square dial Lead Screw

pier

Plastic
Joined
Feb 25, 2015
Hi All

I am a newbie in this forum. I just purchase a 10ee and I am in the process of refurbish it. Currently I am in the process of removing the apron, but what is preventing me executing this is the removal of "Lead crew" at the gear-box end. I did remove the tapered pin but the 1" shaft inside the pipe at the gear-box attachment is not moving at all. Do any body have any suggestions of what tool I should be using for this? is there any clamps that can be attached to the shaft for a good pull?

Thank you in advance

Cheers
Pier
 
Hi All

I am a newbie in this forum. I just purchase a 10ee and I am in the process of refurbish it. Currently I am in the process of removing the apron, but what is preventing me executing this is the removal of "Lead crew" at the gear-box end. I did remove the tapered pin but the 1" shaft inside the pipe at the gear-box attachment is not moving at all. Do any body have any suggestions of what tool I should be using for this? is there any clamps that can be attached to the shaft for a good pull?

Thank you in advance

Cheers
Pier
Welcome aboard!

Here's some instructions for removing the leadscrew and feed-rod:
http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/monarch-lathes/directions-apron-removal-250365/#post1853958

Do you still have the carriage and apron in place? If so, the best bet is to just close the half-nuts and use the apron handwheel to jack the leadscrew and feed-rod free. (See the above for details.)

There are a number of variations in the way that the leadscrew and feed-rod attach. Please post some photos.

Cal
 
Hi All

I am a newbie in this forum. I just purchase a 10ee and I am in the process of refurbish it. Currently I am in the process of removing the apron, but what is preventing me executing this is the removal of "Lead crew" at the gear-box end. I did remove the tapered pin but the 1" shaft inside the pipe at the gear-box attachment is not moving at all. Do any body have any suggestions of what tool I should be using for this? is there any clamps that can be attached to the shaft for a good pull?

Thank you in advance

Cheers
Pier

The easiest way is just to engage the half nuts then slide the saddle down the ways towards the tailstock. Usually there is enough leverage that you can just turn the handwheel and it will pull the leadscrew right out without a lot of effort.
 
I did try to engage the half-nut and then use the wheel on the apron to force the lead-screw to advance but I am exerting a lot of force on the wheel and not a bit of movement of the lead-screw is observed, I am afraid to force more that this, so I will spray a bit of penetrating oil and then try again tomorrow.

The lead-screw shaft and the gearbox attachment seems to be a very tight fit, I am wondering if there is some corrosion in the interface of the two parts which prevent a smooth separation.

Do you know if there are collar type of clamps that can be used in this case, similar to a pulley puller.
 
I did try to engage the half-nut and then use the wheel on the apron to force the lead-screw to advance but I am exerting a lot of force on the wheel and not a bit of movement of the lead-screw is observed, I am afraid to force more that this, so I will spray a bit of penetrating oil and then try again tomorrow.
...
I assume that you unbolted the bracket on the right end?

Lets see some pictures with something to point out the taper pin(s) that you removed.

Cal
 
Hi Cal

Yes, I did remove the bracket on the right side (see attached photos)
IMG_1707.jpgIMG_1708.jpg

Today I ordered two Collar Clamps and I will modify them to use four bolts pushing against the two clamps, hopefully this will initiate some movement of the Lead screw shaft and then I will try the apron approach again.

By the way this is the picture of my Monarch 10ee it is a 1946. I picked it up last month in one of the air-force base machine shop in Trenton Ontario Canada. I drove a total of 800 Km with temperature of -32 Celsius, and finally I got it in my shop. AND THE WORK CONTINUES.

IMG_1568.jpg

Cheers
Pier
 
Hi Cal

Yes, I did remove the bracket on the right side (see attached photos)
View attachment 134100View attachment 134101

Today I ordered two Collar Clamps and I will modify them to use four bolts pushing against the two clamps, hopefully this will initiate some movement of the Lead screw shaft and then I will try the apron approach again.
...
Hi Pier,

One thing that I thought about is maybe the tapered hole got buggered up at some point. The last time that it was apart, someone may have driven the pin in with the holes slightly misaligned. It's good practice to lightly ream the hole once the parts are lined up to make absolutely sure that things are lined up and the taper is smooth.

What did the pin look like that you took out? Unless it came out real easy and looked pristine, it might be worth running a tapered reamer thought there to knock off any burrs that might have formed. The leadscrew stub should be a close sliding fit to into the socket; no real force should be required to insert or remove it. Hopefully some moron didn't put LockTite in there...

Keep us posted on how your puller works out.

Cal
 
Hi Cal

Lead screw is finally out.

The pin did look very good and smooth when I took it out, that is why I assumed the tapered hole was also fine. However I took your suggestion and I run a small file in the hole very lightly to clean up a possible burr. I then installed the two collar clamps that I modify (see photo below), and voila, the lead-screw slowly was separated from the gearbox attachment. Mind you that the two clamps did put a lot of force to separate the two parts, there was no way that the apron wheel could have done it.

IMG_1716.jpg

My next step is to separate the apron from the saddle. Is this a simple procedure as it is described in the thread mentioned above? Do I need to worry about the lubrication fittings?
How are the lubrication fitting from the appron to the saddle routed?
 
"However I took your suggestion and I run a small file in the hole very lightly to clean up a possible burr."

The best approach is to run a taper pin reamer through the bore.

The spiral type are preferred.
 
...My next step is to separate the apron from the saddle. Is this a simple procedure as it is described in the thread mentioned above? Do I need to worry about the lubrication fittings?
How are the lubrication fitting from the appron to the saddle routed?
Since you have a square-dial, you can just lower the saddle down onto some supports, using the saddle-to-apron bolts. The oil line from the apron to the saddle has an O-ring seal between the two, so there's nothing to unfasten. (Round-dials have the oil line to the saddle that connects to a manifold on the apron and the line has to be disconnected before the apron can be completely removed.)

Cal
 
Can someone please tell me what this component is? Is it just a spacer? I don't think its a thrust bearing. If this set up is similar to mine, I believe to the right of the circled part is a ball bearing. I haven't taken my leadscrew support off yet, just looking at pictures to get an idea.


IMG_1708.jpg
 
Suggest you re-review the link above to Cal's 2002 instructions. I used the all-thread suggestion very successfully to lower the apron past the length of the cap screws to, IIRC, a table/ piece of plywood just above the chip tray edge to minimize lifting.
 








 
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