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10k Horizontal motor mount?
- Thread starter kshaub103
- Start date
- Replies 34
- Views 4,093
steve-l
Titanium
- Joined
- Mar 2, 2012
- Location
- Geilenkirchen, Germany
Nothing, if everything fits. Did you check?
Check my level. The back of the motor mount is t flush with the top of the work surface.
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Bob Leistner
Plastic
- Joined
- Feb 3, 2010
- Location
- Pgh PA USA
You're using a furnace motor? Perhaps if you explain yourself someone could give you an answer. This isn't the Riddle Channel.
? If you look at my photo it showed the uneven surface between the table and the motor extended plate.
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Idk if I wasn’t clear but the motor mount assembly is not flush with the table and the back part of the table. It’s not level. It doesn’t seam right to me the back to holes align with the table. But the front single mount has no spot to mount the assembly. It doesn’t seam to be missing something.
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If anyone has a better detail photos this is what I’m looking for
Tho the other side would help as well trying to figure out where the arm attaches thru the head stock. I’m not sure how to re assembly this component.
Just a couple example of what’s in the web but really doesn’t help. Seam there was more 10k with un drive.
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Tho the other side would help as well trying to figure out where the arm attaches thru the head stock. I’m not sure how to re assembly this component.
Just a couple example of what’s in the web but really doesn’t help. Seam there was more 10k with un drive.
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I agree that it doesn’t look factory with only two bolts connecting in the rear. Based on some other pictures you have posted of the lathe I don’t think the stand is South Bend factory issue for a 10K lathe but I am probably wrong.
I would try and see if there is space behind the bed to mount the motor jackshaft assembly directly to the bottom of the chip pan. If not then maybe a sub plate under the assembly that extends forward enough to pick up the front mount hole and into the chip pan enough for two bolts with spacers to bolt through the chip pan.
Or it will probably work fine as is with only the two rear bolts. There isn’t much load on that plate with most of the forces being between the belt and belt tensioner rod. The plate just needs to support the weight of the assembly and the light shear and bending moment load on the two bolts.
Just some thoughts. Hope this helps.
Ben
I would try and see if there is space behind the bed to mount the motor jackshaft assembly directly to the bottom of the chip pan. If not then maybe a sub plate under the assembly that extends forward enough to pick up the front mount hole and into the chip pan enough for two bolts with spacers to bolt through the chip pan.
Or it will probably work fine as is with only the two rear bolts. There isn’t much load on that plate with most of the forces being between the belt and belt tensioner rod. The plate just needs to support the weight of the assembly and the light shear and bending moment load on the two bolts.
Just some thoughts. Hope this helps.
Ben
I’m glad you agree I’m looking at it again I might be able to slide the plate more level and just use the two mount hole as this is how i got the lathe.
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steve-l
Titanium
- Joined
- Mar 2, 2012
- Location
- Geilenkirchen, Germany
Like I said, if you did your homework, you did nothing wrong. So, I asked you and you had no idea what I was asking. The answer of course is you have not done your homework because you don't know. Here is a list of what these tasks are. There are 3 dimensions you must have before you start.
1) Height off cabinet surface to countershaft center parallel to the headstock spindle line. (up -down)
2) Distance from headstock spindle line to the countershaft center line. (in - out)
3) Correct longitudinal position (left - right)
These 3 dimensions are primary to position the countershaft assembly correctly parallel to the lathe spindle flat belt sheaves. but that is only half the work. The other half is motor alignment to the countershaft.
Dimension 1 is not critical and it is determined mostly by establishing adequate bottom clearance between the cabinet and motor case so as to not cause interference when the countershaft swings to tighten and loosen the belt, but parallelism is. Dimension 2 is the proposed belt length and that is determined by the locking rod length. Adjust the rod to its minimum length. mount it between the headstock and countershaft assembly and measure it. Dimension 3 is determined with a large square and a straightedge measuring off the side of the large flat sheave behind the bull gear in the headstock to the small pulley on the countershaft this establishes the left to right position of the countershaft assembly. Be sure to leave the mounting bolt holes oversize to allow skew adjustment. You will need that to make certain the belt tension is the same on all 3 pulley sets.. Once that is established the countershaft assembly should be dowel pinned.
The next task is the motor alignment to the countershaft. You may want to actually do this first, otherwise you will not know the required height of dimension 1 above. (motor clearance to the cabinet) The same rules apply as before. The armature shaft of the motor must be parallel to the countershaft. This motor mount should also swing on a pivot to adjust belt tension on the V belt. That adaptor plate will be determined by the countershaft assembly mounting bolts and the motor frame dimensions.
We have not discussed the motor selection. I hope you have done this correctly because it can effect everything above if the motor is too large. There is limited space between the countershaft assembly with a mounted motor and the back of the lathe bed. The motor should not be smaller than 1/2 HP and no larger than 3/4 HP. It should be a 4 pole motor (Low speed) and be switch reversible.
1) Height off cabinet surface to countershaft center parallel to the headstock spindle line. (up -down)
2) Distance from headstock spindle line to the countershaft center line. (in - out)
3) Correct longitudinal position (left - right)
These 3 dimensions are primary to position the countershaft assembly correctly parallel to the lathe spindle flat belt sheaves. but that is only half the work. The other half is motor alignment to the countershaft.
Dimension 1 is not critical and it is determined mostly by establishing adequate bottom clearance between the cabinet and motor case so as to not cause interference when the countershaft swings to tighten and loosen the belt, but parallelism is. Dimension 2 is the proposed belt length and that is determined by the locking rod length. Adjust the rod to its minimum length. mount it between the headstock and countershaft assembly and measure it. Dimension 3 is determined with a large square and a straightedge measuring off the side of the large flat sheave behind the bull gear in the headstock to the small pulley on the countershaft this establishes the left to right position of the countershaft assembly. Be sure to leave the mounting bolt holes oversize to allow skew adjustment. You will need that to make certain the belt tension is the same on all 3 pulley sets.. Once that is established the countershaft assembly should be dowel pinned.
The next task is the motor alignment to the countershaft. You may want to actually do this first, otherwise you will not know the required height of dimension 1 above. (motor clearance to the cabinet) The same rules apply as before. The armature shaft of the motor must be parallel to the countershaft. This motor mount should also swing on a pivot to adjust belt tension on the V belt. That adaptor plate will be determined by the countershaft assembly mounting bolts and the motor frame dimensions.
We have not discussed the motor selection. I hope you have done this correctly because it can effect everything above if the motor is too large. There is limited space between the countershaft assembly with a mounted motor and the back of the lathe bed. The motor should not be smaller than 1/2 HP and no larger than 3/4 HP. It should be a 4 pole motor (Low speed) and be switch reversible.
I’m a bad student I know. I’m Learning slowly. We can start with the motor as it came with the unit is a 3/4hp Westinghouse that I had service and cleaned up.
I think I did one thing right. We will see. I found better photos of the assembly so I now understand where the arm that where not connected when I receive the unit so I feel better about re assembly the unit properly. And I will try to follow the instructions.
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steve-l
Titanium
- Joined
- Mar 2, 2012
- Location
- Geilenkirchen, Germany
I suggest to make an adaptor plate that pivots first to mount this motor. One side of the adaptor will mount to the countershaft casting. The other plate connected by a hinge pin mounts to the motor frame. You can use a simple bolt with a lock nut to adjust the V belt tension.Keep this adaptor assembly as thin as possible to conserve space.once that is done, you can use shims to position the countershaft assembly in height to establish dimension 1.
I’m a visual person, I’m having trouble picturing an adaptor plate that pivots.
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steve-l
Titanium
- Joined
- Mar 2, 2012
- Location
- Geilenkirchen, Germany
There are many different designs around to do this. Consider that the motor frame does not have to mount parallel to the casting. It could mount so the frame is 90 degrees from the casting's mount surface and if that plate pivoted, it would change the center to center distance between the countershaft and amature shaft. Pretty simple really with very little loss of space.
steve-l
Titanium
- Joined
- Mar 2, 2012
- Location
- Geilenkirchen, Germany
I think that may be depending on which countershaft assembly you have. There have been many. My countershaft assembly mounts the motor in front. The OP's mounts the motor behind. My 10K has a 1980 build date.
Dobermann
Hot Rolled
- Joined
- Jan 2, 2014
- Location
- North Carolina
It looks like a resilient motor mount bolted to the counter shaft assembly. There's nothing wrong with that and it doesn't necessarily mean it's a furnace blower motor.
But, if the picture of the nameplate of the motor is actually the one you're using, you do understand that it's a 3 phase motor which will require either a phase converter or a VFD to run it on household power.
But, if the picture of the nameplate of the motor is actually the one you're using, you do understand that it's a 3 phase motor which will require either a phase converter or a VFD to run it on household power.
jmm03
Hot Rolled
- Joined
- Aug 8, 2004
- Location
- ventura,ca.usa
I wonder if that mount was actually designed for a lathe that did not have that type of cabinet or chip pan. Were it me I would fab a plate that raised the motor mount up to clear the existing chip pan and bolt it down flush with 3 bolts. As to the level, I assume you already leveled the lathe. If so, and you want to level the bracket, you will probably need to shim it out. I don't think it matters too much however since it shouldn't reduce the amount of belt adjustment significantly. It should be plumb perpendicular so there is alignment of the flat belt sheaves. (oh also, how accurate is your .59 cent horrible freight level by the way...) just funning you, sometimes you need a thick skin on this forum, but most times people are pretty helpful. Jim
Lol I think it was a Amazon special, more for the photo then anything. Thanks Jim for the information, I’m in the process of putting the lathe back together after I vapor blasted most of the unit. So of the lathe and the cabinet are not level. I’m been looking for a proper set of Machinist tools for calibrating and leveling the lathe. think you idea should work. It just seams odd that it came off this table from the Industrial supply warehouse that I purchased it from.
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