A few basic questions

[D.Scaife]

How is the spindle powered - when the motor is in the base but the ram can move back and forth?

As the different makes seem so similar in concept - which one is the "original"?

How long does it take to refit and align the right angle table? Also it kinda looks a bit flexible without a front support.

OK Bridgeport parts are extremely expensive - will you need a second mortgage to repair/run a Deckel (and can you still buy parts for the older ones)?

And just how do you get your head round the fact that y=x and x=y if you also use a knee type mill on a daily basis?

Thanks.

 

[Sean S]

Here's a diagram of the driveline for an FP-1.

The right angle table is keyed so it goes right on and off with no tramming. The universal "swiveling" table needs to be re-trammed if you loosen it up on it's rotational axes, but is also keyed if you are just re-installing it. How long that would take would depend on how many of the rotational axes you disturbed and how fast you are at tramming something.

Manual Deckels are pretty robust. You shouldn't have to repair too much in a home shop enviroment, but if you do break something, you will have to go to DMG (Deckel Maho Glidemeister) or similar for parts.

Not sure how to answer your last question... you just get used to it. I have other non-deckel "standard" knee mills that have the handwheels in alternate positions from the usual Bridgeports.
The handwheel placement on these type of machines has different advantages and dis-advatages from what would be considered the US standard, just as the US standard would have it's advantages and dis-advantages to someone who had become accustomed to something else.


Sean

[This message has been edited by Sean S (edited 07-10-2002).]

[This message has been edited by Sean S (edited 07-10-2002).]

 

[Greg B]

Hello,
I have an FP1 that I know was originally purchased new in '63. #4 morse spindle,
it has the levers to change speeds and feeds, and the on/off buttons are just under the gauge block ledgeon the Y axis. I got it
a few years ago.
Anyway, to make a short story long, someone
(not me), decided to put a zirc fitting on
the the saddle and pump grease in instead
of oiling the saddle daily. I decided to disassemble the saddle to clean all the
grease out, but I can't quite figure out
the proper way to remove the bevel gears
that control the X axis power feed. I don't
want to force anything and break it.
If anyone has experience with this I would
really appreciate the advice.
Greg B.