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Advice on Clausing drill press

For a short link, #14 would work just fine. The issue is voltage drop, not heating per se. The over-current will not blow #14 like a fuse.



I agree with getting it up off the floor. I think a cage would be easier than a shelf, given the weight of the motor. Make a stout little base, and maybe a little ventilated cover?

If it's too noisy when running, one can mount it on some rubber vibration mounts, but don't forget to provide a flexible grounding strap from motor frame to base and cover if they are metal. Everything metal must be grounded.
I think a cage sounds good, I'll be sure to ground anything not welded to the cage. I have a few pieces of 3x3 1/4 wall tubing that should be a good start. Also have some rubber bushings for large compressors that should help with the noise........ heavy cage and rubber bushings might make it quiet and keep it from moving much. Thank you again!!!!
 
I made an angle iron frame with about 5 inch legs with rubber feet. The frame has a back that where my control box for the RPC is mounted and my 3Ph breaker panel to supply machinery. The idler motor makes very little noise. If you have a bare shaft it must be covered but a full motor cage is not necessary
 
I made an angle iron frame with about 5 inch legs with rubber feet. The frame has a back that where my control box for the RPC is mounted and my 3Ph breaker panel to supply machinery. The idler motor makes very little noise. If you have a bare shaft it must be covered but a full motor cage is not necessary
Dave, thank you. Any chance you could possibly post a picture? I kinda have an idea of what I want to make but pictures don't hurt. Thank you again.
 
North American's spec sheet calls for 10 AWG on the 3 phase. Guess I'll be using that to wire the motor with, 10 year warranty on the panel, don't know if 12 AWG would delete the warranty.
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Yes. Given that it's in the top-level spec, I would definitely assume that #12 will void the warantee, so gotta use the #10.
The good news is that 10 AWG is still easy to work with 😁........unless it's romex and you are putting it in a 20 amp run with a small receptacle box, which I have done before......
 
The mill would trip the VFD, but much less so, likely due to energy stored in the motor, but if the spindle was configured for high rpm, the spindle would store enough energy to matter.

There are plenty of generic braking resistors available; one need not use only those made by the VFD maker. Just match the resistance and power capacity.
If your high inertia load is causing caps to fail - which is very unusual - you can program the drive's ramp down function to come into play. It's not doing any braking, it's simply turning itself off slowly instead of instantly. No need for resistors or braking. If your VFD still loses caps despite having ramp down in effect...it's a lousy VFD.
 
Do not use undersized wire.Why, because I said so.Seriously it’s an intelligence test . Here are a couple pics of my RPG setupIMG_0287.jpegIMG_0288.jpeg
 
Do not use undersized wire.Why, because I said so.Seriously it’s an intelligence test . Here are a couple pics of my RPG setupView attachment 396780View attachment 396781
Nice setup, thanks for posting! I definitely don't use undersized wire for projects.........metal either........ I tend to over build things just a little anytime I can get away with it. I know the 12 AWG would be the right size but I was itching to go with 10 anyway, then I noticed on the spec it calls for 10 so once again, I'm not an electrician but the little knowledge I do have has me confident in this particular wire size. Looks like your motor is about 2 1/2 -3 inches off the ground maybe. I know my panel is going to be about chest height on the wall but I don't want too much dust on the motor either or have it boxed in so much that it runs hot.......and my shop floor gets a lot of dust/debris during metal projects. Am I being too picky/cautious about the dust? Thanks again for the reply and pictures!!
 
Looks like your motor is about 2 1/2 -3 inches off the ground maybe. I know my panel is going to be about chest height on the wall but I don't want too much dust on the motor either or have it boxed in so much that it runs hot.......and my shop floor gets a lot of dust/debris during metal projects. Am I being too picky/cautious about the dust? Thanks again for the reply and pictures!!

I don't recall seeing a photo of the ends of the 7.5 HP motor. Are they open, or sealed? On the motor dataplate, there should be an environmental code somewhere. The ideal would be TEFC, but I don't think that you have one of those.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/TEFC_motor
 
So, the 7.5 HP Idler motor is open-frame, so it will require protection from grit and especially metal chips. A drip-proof box cover over the motor would do the job.

For the record, here are the NEMA motor enclosure types:

https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/nema-enclosure-standards-d_740.html
Thank you again, so I'll need to make a cover to completely cover the top and maybe even drop down on the sides just a bit. Maybe a full cover on the front with louvers on it....... We do some stainless steel at work with louvers similar to the picture. Thanks again!!!!Screenshot_20230524-180500_Samsung Internet.jpg
 
Thank you again, so I'll need to make a cover to completely cover the top and maybe even drop down on the sides just a bit. Maybe a full cover on the front with louvers on it....... We do some stainless steel at work with louvers similar to the picture. Thanks again!!!!
Yes, something like those louvers, maybe finer pitch. Only need louvers on the box sides that face the two ends of the 7.5 HP idler motor within. With insect screen on the inside, to keep chips and insects out.
 
Running a bigger RPG is not a power hog. Most of the time my 25 is only running a 10 hp lathe and I don’t even notice the run time on my power meter. I would start with what your max expectations are. I would opt for a TEFC in a machine shop. It is some significant work to put your power supply together so I would not want to do it twice. The motor you have will draw dirty machine shop air through it every running minute regardless of screening.
 
Yes, something like those louvers, maybe finer pitch. Only need louvers on the box sides that face the two ends of the 7.5 HP idler motor within. With insect screen on the inside, to keep chips and insects out.
Thank you again, now I have a decent idea of what to build. What do you think, around 3 inches of clearance all the way around on the inside?
 
Running a bigger RPG is not a power hog. Most of the time my 25 is only running a 10 hp lathe and I don’t even notice the run time on my power meter. I would start with what your max expectations are. I would opt for a TEFC in a machine shop. It is some significant work to put your power supply together so I would not want to do it twice. The motor you have will draw dirty machine shop air through it every running minute regardless of screening.
Thank you, I wouldn't really call it a machine shop lol. It's just a small shop out back where I do metal work sometimes. I think the 7.5 hp is going to be plenty for whatever I need it for, the drill press is only 3/4 & 1 1/2 hp and the little shop is going to be about filled up. The press was free as was the 7.5 idol motor, if the 7.5 burns up I'll look for a better one. I would like to power it up one time before I purchase the control panel just to make sure it's good though. I'm not concerned about the amount of work, I'm more concerned about getting it right though lol Thanks again!!!
 
Sounds reasonable. But do a fit test in a cardboard box before welding much.
Thank you again, I'll be sure to check the fit before anything more than a tac weld is done. I've been working on a 42 inch dozer blade for my 67 sears suburban off and on for a month or so and I know I've had that thing together and apart a half a dozen times so far. I started with just the blade and the piece that allows you to angle it left or right, all the rest I've built from 1/4 plate...........FUN.

For the motor, I'm going to have it around 3-5 inches off the ground completely covered with louvers on the front and rear panels, hopefully at least 10 feet from the drill press. Probably going to use a mixture of plastic conduit and flex conduit. Thank you once again!!!
 
Thank you again, I'll be sure to check the fit before anything more than a tac weld is done. I've been working on a 42 inch dozer blade for my 67 sears suburban off and on for a month or so and I know I've had that thing together and apart a half a dozen times so far. I started with just the blade and the piece that allows you to angle it left or right, all the rest I've built from 1/4 plate...........FUN.

For the motor, I'm going to have it around 3-5 inches off the ground completely covered with louvers on the front and rear panels, hopefully at least 10 feet from the drill press. Probably going to use a mixture of plastic conduit and flex conduit. Thank you once again!!!
Which way does the idler motor fit in the cover box? For clean airflow, it should be a straight shot: In one louver, then in one end of the motor, out the other end, and then out the opposite louver. In other words, the motor rotation axis would be perpendicular to the louvers.
 








 
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