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Advice on how to make a part for K.O. Lee T&C Grinder

sfreidberg's approach gives real meaning to 'thinking out side the box' when there's not many other options.
Reminds me of the
---82' i.d. Cooling Tower Construction Platform template we had to mill years ago. Template would be used to mill 33-- 4' x 8' sheets of decking to build platform. We created a reinforced 41'+/- straight pendulum arm to mount a 3 1/2 hp Router in order to accurately profile the inner and outer radius of the Composite Template stock. As mentioned earlier, Climb cutting was a definite No No for this project as well! Engineers gave us a + / - 1/2" allowance on the 82' specs including the angles for end cuts. Seemed pretty simple back then! Ha
Bet you CNC guys can rip that project out in a flash now day!!:wall:
 
sfreidberg's approach gives real meaning to 'thinking out side the box' when there's not many other options.
Reminds me of the
---82' i.d. Cooling Tower Construction Platform template we had to mill years ago. Template would be used to mill 33-- 4' x 8' sheets of decking to build platform. We created a reinforced 41'+/- straight pendulum arm to mount a 3 1/2 hp Router in order to accurately profile the inner and outer radius of the Composite Template stock. As mentioned earlier, Climb cutting was a definite No No for this project as well! Engineers gave us a + / - 1/2" allowance on the 82' specs including the angles for end cuts. Seemed pretty simple back then! Ha
Bet you CNC guys can rip that project out in a flash now day!!:wall:
Not quite there yet, but working on it. LOL
Bob
 
Having a feel-flush gauge from the moving/swing table to the base long table edge can be handy..just a block you quickly set there just forward of the new part you made..to have a straight table.

For quick set-up, a small straight edge or a small Allen wrench held to the tool/cutter and looking over to a straight feature on the machine, or even something a distance away like a doorway or the next machine can get you near zero the match to angle or straight..Yes for the tool edge/side and also to match the clearance ange...then a rub of the parked wheel can make .001 or so.

For taper reamers, end mills, and step tools it can be best to circle grind what you need and then add the clearance up to the circle land or sharp.

For chattery tools, a slow by-hand feed/rotation beats trying to motor spin.

A slug/wad of children's modeling clay keeps chattery tools from chattering.

The dressed od of a wheel often gives less tendency to chatter and a better finish than a cup wheel.
 
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Do pay attention to wheel RPM ..just using your motor rpm and calculating the pulleys is close enough as the wheel will go a little slower. Always have a wheel guard and ring test on a TC grinder because often you are in line with a wheel blow-up zone... and nodding your head to look at something can bump your forehead into a wheel.

Angled way out from your table swing lock screw in the last hole, tag a few rubber bands from the table to the lock screw.

My KOLee cartridge spindle has a hole on its side where spindle oil is added. I think it is threaded but I just put a piece of tape over the hole. yes, you have to slide the tube out to see that hole...perhaps some later models don't have the hols and are greased for life(?).
 
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