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Air Compressor Tank Electrolysis

To be fair they did have an air drier on the line(one of those expensive ones from HF but never bothered to drain the tanks) but other than some rust there is nothing wrong with it. He was throwing it away because originally there we had two of these connected in series but he purchased a used Quincy QT-15 120gal from someone that was going out of business and kept one of the husky's as a backup and just threw away the other as it was taking up too much space.

Also not sure if you red the original post but I have already hydrostatic tested this tank. I am just looking for a good way to get the crud out of the bottom of the tank and then give a good rust preventative coating.

I've a buddy who works at place that finals various large sculpture type items. They have a drier between the head an receiver (500ltr vertical), he rarely drains it as he never gets anything out of it, regardless of how long its left.
 
Water and edta will chemically attack the rust without embrittlement or any other bad effects. Maybe a soak in lye would remove any oils. Add some sand and let it rotate to knock stuff loose.I have seen videos of powered rock tumbler, cement mixer type setups to do this.
Rinse and let dry then use the machine to spread the final paint.
Bill D
 
After I get the rust removed, I'm thinking of using Rustoleum NeverWet 2 part spray. Is this a good idea? I just don't want it clogging up my lines in the future because I plan on using a sand blaster.

Also what is the best way to displace water out of the tank once I am done with electrolysis?
 
I like the idea of tumbling to remove the loose rust.

The tumbling setup will help with coating the tank inside.

CRC or other commercial rust converter products.

CRC(R) Rust Converter, 32 Fl Oz

Then paint that.

Thin the paint with hot solvents like acetone so it will dry in that enclosed space.


Or take it to a shop that does tank re-coatings.
there used to be half a dozen gas tank shops in my city. Plastic gas tanks on cars have stopped that and diy kits are more common.
 
Tip I read for drying wall cavity insulation would work well here. Put in a air hose from an aquarium air pump and run the pump for several days to vent the tank. Put the hose end as far from the outlet vent as possible for max air movement inside.
Another choice would be a long vertical pipe as a chimney with a open bung down low. Place it outside in the wind on a warm day for several days.
Trying to blow out solvent with compressed air may create a tank full of an explosive mixture and static sparks from the air flow.
Bill D.
 
I know what & how a hydro test is, and how it's done, have had several done, and watched the process.

Funny how there won't be any water in it for all the years it's in use......:nutter:

Safety first. I keep my tanks full of water :D
 
Overthinking this a bit are we? Tank was successfully pressure tested. Put it into service. Drain it daily.

jack vines

On my 25 gallon tank at home I removed the drain fitting and added an elbow with a steel braided line and a valve/spigot at the end so I can drain it into a plastic pan after every use. The factory setup was a PITA to reach and prone to jamming.

The hose extends past the tank so it is easy to reach the valve.
 
On my 25 gallon tank at home I removed the drain fitting and added an elbow with a steel braided line and a valve/spigot at the end so I can drain it into a plastic pan after every use. The factory setup was a PITA to reach and prone to jamming.

The hose extends past the tank so it is easy to reach the valve.
Right. What I like to do is add a street elbow and a fairly long piece of pipe - preferably brass on stainless, then add a valve. That way most of the condensation stays in the pipe not the tank.

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One of those pull cord tank drains like on tractor trailers is nice, too. No need to reach down to drain the tank.

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