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Albrecht Drill Chuck TIR issues

Spinninchips

Plastic
Joined
Sep 18, 2007
Location
Massachusetts
Hi... I purchased a new to me (Used) Albrecht Drill Chuck and set it up to check accuracy. In my Clausing mill, it is registering .008" TIR--WOW! That's horrible I think! I then indicated on the narrower neck part of the chuck body and it was pretty good: .001" or less. So, I suspect the jaws are toast in this chuck. I wanted to check the price on a repair kit but can't find my model number listed. All that is stamped into the body is the name, "Albrecht", 1/32" - 1/2" (the capacity range), Germany (place of manufacture) and THIS number: 1-13 (which to me is the size range in mm.). This doesn't look like what I am seeing out there when I check for replacement jaws. Anyone run into this before? I've attached a picture showing that weird (mm???) number. EDIT 3/2/24: I've disassembled that chuck and found it a mess... jaws centerline wrecked in places--they need a re-grind (see pics). I cleaned the rest of the chuck, lubed the balls and reassembled with the jaws "precision" ground (by hand and eye on the side of my bench grinder wheel--see pics). But, before any of you get apoplectic about this, I figured I had nothing to lose as the chuck cannot be used in the present condition. I am NOT going to spend the $190 for new jaws either, so... I reground them to see if anything changes (hopefully improves). If it does get better, then I will fine tune the grinding as best I can to achieve the best end results. I tried to attach a small video showing my results so far... from .008"TIR now to as good as .003"TIR, but this server doesn't seem to be able to handle a file of a few MB, so you'll just have to take my work Not bad, but also not GOOD enough. I will now carefully index and mark which jaw is moving it out of centerline and carefully grind THAT jaw a bit more to see if I can get around .002" or better.
 

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So, I suspect the jaws are toast in this chuck.
Correct, grab a ground bar lightly in the chuck and see if you have any wiggle in the bar. There should be zero wiggle, it is common for people to grab with only the front of the jaws and damage them.

Albrecht chucks are some of the best on the market. I have done jaw replacements before however that was a very long time ago. If you cannot source new spares then strip the chuck and regrind the jaws.
 
You don't say if the .008 tir is on a chucked item or the body. If a chucked item, also check the runout at the far end of the chuck body. The arbor may be bent or the quill taper dirty or bad.
 
Hi... I purchased a new to me (Used) Albrecht Drill Chuck and set it up to check accuracy. In my Clausing mill, it is registering .008" TIR--WOW! That's horrible I think! I then indicated on the narrower neck part of the chuck body and it was pretty good: .001" or less. So, I suspect the jaws are toast in this chuck. I wanted to check the price on a repair kit but can't find my model number listed. All that is stamped into the body is the name, "Albrecht", 1/32" - 1/2" (the capacity range), Germany (place of manufacture) and THIS number: 1-13 (which to me is the size range in mm.). This doesn't look like what I am seeing out there when I check for replacement jaws. Anyone run into this before? I've attached a picture showing that weird (mm???) number.
The 1/32 - 1/2 or 1 - 13mm Albrecht is their 130 series. Their part number 70712 should be the correct set of jaws.

 
Body is a sleeve and can have run out which doesn't effect the jaw run out.

Ok. But .008 runout seems huge for one of those chucks, even on the sleeve. Surely if the jaws are worn that much you'll be able to see visible damage. Maybe chuck something small and indicate the outside surface of the jaws where they stick out. They should run true and that will confirm if the mounting is true.
 
Or a possible second reason you could be seeing run out numbers like that. Some don't seem to know keyless chucks have some definite restrictions for what they can or can't do. My Albrecht came with a warning in the few pages of the user instructions not to exceed the diameter with any cutting tool that's larger than the capacity of the chuck itself. S & D drills, hole saws etc. There's older posts on these forums even mentioning this and the possible permanent damage if you ignore that warning.

What can happen is the torque from those larger diameter tools starts self tightening the chuck to prevent slip just like there designed to do. If the chuck tightens enough, permanent deformation of the chucks internals like the balls and track they ride on, or up to a full seized chuck that may be impossible to open without destroying it. Maybe that's not what happened with yours, but it's something to be aware of. And afaik, if this happens, there doesn't seem to be even a factory method back in Germany that can repair the damage.
 
Or a possible second reason you could be seeing run out numbers like that. Some don't seem to know keyless chucks have some definite restrictions for what they can or can't do. My Albrecht came with a warning in the few pages of the user instructions not to exceed the diameter with any cutting tool that's larger than the capacity of the chuck itself. S & D drills, hole saws etc. There's older posts on these forums even mentioning this and the possible permanent damage if you ignore that warning.

What can happen is the torque from those larger diameter tools starts self tightening the chuck to prevent slip just like there designed to do. If the chuck tightens enough, permanent deformation of the chucks internals like the balls and track they ride on, or up to a full seized chuck that may be impossible to open without destroying it. Maybe that's not what happened with yours, but it's something to be aware of. And afaik, if this happens, there doesn't seem to be even a factory method back in Germany that can repair the damage.
I have a 1/2" capacity Italian made Jacobs keyless I ruined in this way, well it was an 8mm drill that grabbed and stopped dead but the Bridgeport kept on chugging and shattered the drill tip, it had to be undone with a 2' pair of Stilsons, the chuck is fine if you stay under 8mm but try to go above it locks itself up every time.
 
Correct, grab a ground bar lightly in the chuck and see if you have any wiggle in the bar. There should be zero wiggle, it is common for people to grab with only the front of the jaws and damage them.

Albrecht chucks are some of the best on the market. I have done jaw replacements before however that was a very long time ago. If you cannot source new spares then strip the chuck and regrind the jaws.
That .008" TIR is on a chucked drill rod. I did check the MT2 arbor where it exits the MT3 adaptor and it is running under .001TIR, and then the neck of the chuck itself is running about .001"TIR. There is visible damage to the jaws grabbing centerline edge, so I'm going to try to grind them myself--I've got nothing to loose with these jaws.
 
Have you chucked a pin and checked the outside of the jaws.? That surface should run true if the arbor is straight. It'll only take a minute and you might find you need to work on the arbor also.
 
Very modest experience but might be relevant. Many years ago I was adapting an Albrecht chuck to a bench motor, and for reasons I don't remember had to disassemble it. When everything was done, mounted and reassembled, the TIR was terrible. I found that I'd paid no attention to jaw position on reassembly and it apparently mattered. After getting jaws back in their rightful places, all was good.
 








 
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