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Alexander toolmaster ( deckel fp1 ) clone

That would be super cool! As I can't follow the French or German. I'll buy the manual if there's a download version?
 
Ok, a forum never was cool enough to forward me the manual. Thanks pal! Still some things aren't clear

I loosened the screws on the vertical head and slid the head forward a few inches and just poured in 1.5 litres of mobil medium DTE. But still the front site glass shows nothing, did I do this correct? Itopped up all other points.

One I'm a little confused about.., in the front of the head are two oil ports, the bottom one accepts oil for the quill. The top I believe is for the bearings iunscrewed it and it's totally gummed up with grease.. Send odd. Or is this correct?
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What a beauty! I guess that's what comes of getting it from Leica/Leitz ;-)
Are there any other Lorch lathes from them available?
 
Hello

Same here, i bought Alexander master toolmaker too recently,
And plan to do restoration in the next 3-4 mnths (i will make new thread about it)
https://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/deckel-maho-aciera-abene-mills/finally-alexander-master-toolmaker-follow-me-home-360982/#post3318044

What is your serial number? do you figure it up how to find manufacturing date of that mill?
Alexander is same as early deckel FP1 (1930s)

Erik share his early Deckel FP1 in my thread (dropbox link), that would be really helpfull.
I have manual from
George H. Alexander - Publication Reprints - Master Toolmaker | VintageMachinery.org

regards
 
Hello

Same here, i bought Alexander master toolmaker too recently,
And plan to do restoration in the next 3-4 mnths (i will make new thread about it)
https://www.practicalmachinist.com/...-toolmaker-follow-me-home-360982/#post3318044

What is your serial number? do you figure it up how to find manufacturing date of that mill?
Alexander is same as early deckel FP1 (1930s)

Erik share his early Deckel FP1 in my thread (dropbox link), that would be really helpfull.
I have manual from
George H. Alexander - Publication Reprints - Master Toolmaker | VintageMachinery.org

regards

Thank you for posting those links !
I needed that GHA milling machine manual badly !
 
Hello all! Yesterday i drove a total of 1065 kilometers to to pick up a Perrin Milling machine with alot of tools.

I have been searching around the internet for similar machines and this is the closest i have come.

Take a look at the picture, i have already started to clean up the machine and i will do a simple restauraation.

The only marking i have found to show any kind of fabrication year is the marking of the motor, it is marked 1941.
 

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Yes they were located in Moutier, Switzerland. From what i have found when taking the mill apart i looks alot like the Deckel, except this noe you only change the Spindle/head of the mill when you want to mill horizontaly, not the top like i have seen on the deckel.
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Hello! Hopefully someone knows. I got this Perrin (deckel clone) as showed earlier in this post. I was only going to clean some parts and paint those who was really bad, obviously this got out of hand. I have now some questions regarding Grease and oil. I do not own a manual and i cannot find one online. Some of my feiends tell me you should never use grease on a milling maching or lathe etc. In this Perrin i have found a lot of grease and some oil. Even the slides are full of grease ( i have ALOT of cleaning to do).

I have now opened up the milling head and gearbox for the powerfeed, should it be oil inside this or should it be grease?

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In the gearbox for the powerfeed there Are also a sightglass but i dont know if it is connected to the center with all the gears
 
I suppose that almost all of the lubrication should be with oil. So you will have to continue your disassembly and clean out the oil passages. Do a search for 'clean grease FP1' and 'clean grease FP2' and you will find a lot of threads about this topic. The problem is that many ignorant people see the 'oil nipples' and think that they are 'grease nipples'.
 
Is really like any advice on painting this ol beast. I don't think I really want to tear her apart. Just get her looking a little better..I will put her straight to work when my collets arrive.. I'll show some of my work if anyone cares to see.
My advice there would to be to find an old-school auto paint supplier that has an old dude that has been mixing colors by eye for most of his life, and ask him what would work best. If you can find such a dinosaur, anyway. Good luck!

The guy I found, set me up with an enamel paint, that he thinned for brush on use, and matched the color to the example I brought him. Pretty sure it was an oil based enamel.

Surface prep is most of the job, so filling in the lumps with some form of filler, as the factory originally did, and sanding things smooth, before you wipe it down, de-grease the surfaces, and apply the paint, is going to amount to being most of the actual work involved.

Some care with masking tape, and you can cut in the seams pretty easily and not fill them with paint. Pull off the tape at the edges of the working area, while the paint is still wet, and the edge will flow and form over, rather than being ripped off, as it will if you pull the tape after the paint dries.

You can do all the prep work and then paint, or do bits at a time and eventually get full cover. If you do the latter, either work from top down or bottom up, rather than down one side and up the other, as settleing pigment in the paint over time can have an effect on the color, and nobody will notice if it gradually changes from top to bottom, say, while it will be quite apparent if you went down one side, then up the other, and the colors do not match where they meet...

Oh hells! Got caught by another necro-thread! Oh well, maybe someone can use the advice. Or provide better! :)
 








 
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