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Aluminum or S.S. mounting hardware. Thin wall tubing. Do not want to drill. Ideas?

rons

Diamond
Joined
Mar 5, 2009
Location
California, USA
Finished my DTV antenna yesterday.

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I would like to replace the steel mast with a aluminum mast but don't want to use a through hole. Something that clamps on.
Was thinking about building a second array and double stacking the pole. Either pointing the existing one at 320 degrees and the second one at 22 degrees.
Or pointing them at the same transmitter and adding to the gain.

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The Allen bolt is 10-32 and the hex shank is 3.5" long. There are two hex shanks at the backside of the array. One at the top and one at the bottom.
I desire the connection to be detachable with the 10-32 bolt secure into the hex shank. What design or part exists that can clamp on to a thin tube
that is 1" diameter and hold a hex shank. A wrap around strap with only one bolt maybe.

In the picture are a couple of U bolts and a 1.5" steel pole. The white insulators are fiberglass rod.

I approve of this.
http://www.worldscientificnews.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/06/WSN-56-2016-21-32.pdf

I asked this question when I thought about those discarded aluminum scooters that get discarded by spoiled kids.
The handle bar height adjustment is tightened with a cam-lock lever. I was thinking about something like that.
 
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Harley-Davidson handle bar accessories and risers are 1" diameter.
Maybe adapting a few of those might work.
Plenty on ebay of various configurations and quality.
 
Pipe hangers
heavy bolt type hose clamps
P clips

If you are married to that exact geometry, pound a 1 inch hole through a piece of 3/8 aluminum, drill a 10-32 threaded hole on center and one on the side, slit it, 15 minutes, clamp.

I think a P clip might be a good idea, the offset could come in handy with more than one device on the same tube
 
Pipe hangers
heavy bolt type hose clamps
P clips

If you are married to that exact geometry, pound a 1 inch hole through a piece of 3/8 aluminum, drill a 10-32 threaded hole on center and one on the side, slit it, 15 minutes, clamp.

I think a P clip might be a good idea, the offset could come in handy with more than one device on the same tube

The square with a hole and a slit is one of the first ideas. The shaping is what takes the time, no cnc here.

The u-bolt idea would have to be SS which this one is not. The far right ones are light enough.

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Pipe hangers
heavy bolt type hose clamps
P clips

If you are married to that exact geometry, pound a 1 inch hole through a piece of 3/8 aluminum, drill a 10-32 threaded hole on center and one on the side, slit it, 15 minutes, clamp.

I think a P clip might be a good idea, the offset could come in handy with more than one device on the same tube

I got an idea from this. Checked it out by making a 4x sketch. A way to use up scrap 3/8 aluminum.
Will show a picture if the pieces come out ok.
 
Progression from square to clamp. It works but these two cracked at the 10-32 stud for the SS hex bar. The hole became larger than 1" by .040.
The Criterion head had this weird backlash that screwed up my creeping to about 1.020. Width of slot is .050. Crack, crack.
The small screw is 8-32 and had it's head reduced in height and diameter.

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A CNC machine could make this better and lighter. How could this be better made with crank wheel machines?

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You just built a shaft collar which is widely available.

Check Ebay or Mcmaster for steel, ss, and alum shaft collars in 1' bore. You can get 1 pc, 2 pc, hinged.

Mcm is high on their shaft collars.
 
Or look for saddle type pipe clamps such as the picture
945bab93973066c97816275720526b27.jpg
 
The oversized hole is the problem, and maybe also the location of the threaded hole for the stud.

Making it so the hole is more accurate, and perhaps moving the stud mount hole so that it is parallel to the clamp hole , perpendicular to the slot

Side effect is you can drill them both in the same setup
Leaving it rectangular could allow you to leave extra material for the stud mount
 
The oversized hole is the problem, and maybe also the location of the threaded hole for the stud.

Making it so the hole is more accurate, and perhaps moving the stud mount hole so that it is parallel to the clamp hole , perpendicular to the slot

Side effect is you can drill them both in the same setup
Leaving it rectangular could allow you to leave extra material for the stud mount

I'm going to consider your comments. I have four blocks ready for something.

The rig is pretty light in weight. Those internet DIY build use PVC pipe and are heavy and present more wind resistance.
I'm using 3/8 fiberglass rod with small hardware. The worst stuff I've cut. The dust sprinkles all over and is only removed by a wipe down.
 








 
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