What's new
What's new

Aluminum sticking to table saw balde?

As others have said you probably have the wrong type of blade on the saw. Aluminum likes a special tooth grind and either WD or wax. I too was having gummed teeth that completely fill the gullet and cause a very rough cut. Once I switched to the right type of blade those problems went away.


The best I have found after 35 years of using my table saw to cut / slit aluminum is called a triple chip grind, with a zero degree hook. Wood blades are typically positive rake, which will pull the chip into the gullet. WD40 is my go to, buy it by the gallon and use a pump bottle. I spray it on the top of the saw table to reduce friction, in addition to the top of the plate. On longer cuts, I might spray some mid cut. Double check to make sure your fence is truly parallel to the blade to reduce binding. A face mask would be better than just glasses, long sleeve shirt and sometimes gloves. The edges are razor sharp. And lastly, no matter how clean you do this, the saw will forever have WD40 remnants on it it all the crevices.
 
I also use diesel fuel or WD-40. Why post on what has already been said? Because I agree with not wanting a mess due to the oily stuff. So, the better way to use either is to just put a few drops on the plate and then use your finger to smear a film of lube down the cut line. That does just as well as a puddle of lube since the blade itself can only carry a very thin film of oil into the cut anyway. I have not liked wax sticks as they do tend to accumulate inside the saw and are harder to remove from the part after cutting. For safety I keep the blade so low that it usually raises a blade-wide foil as the cut progresses.

I have not tried the candle idea. My guess is that, since that wax is harder than the sticks, it will not stick to stuff so much.

I use whatever carbide blade is on the saw and have no trouble with cut quality or build up of aluminum. (I do stay well out of the line of fire and virtually always use a sled even if I have to screw an angled guide to it rather than sliding the plate along a fence or using a miter gage. I think the sled cuts are much safer and more controlled. A slung cutoff piece is a very dangerous thing.)

Denis
 
Tenryu Saw Blade for aluminum.
That is the blade I use dry on an Omga chop saw, wood working speeds. .75 x 3 is biggest solid section I cut, and on edge. .5 x 1.5 cuts very clean because the blade can power through without slowing down. Need to be careful with thicker stuff as finish gets worse as blade speed slows down. Yes to raising the blade. No lubricant of any type used.
 
I have used a LGF Penta extrusion saw (up-cutting, 500mm blade) and it has an oil mist unit that operates only when the cut is made. The amount of lube going onto the blade cannot be seen, you would need to hold a sheet of paper over the nozzle to see anything. It has a small (1 litre?) plastic bottle on the outside of the machine and it seems to last "a long time". Hey, it was years ago.

The spray unit has two tubes going to it - one each for air and lube. I think it draws lube from the bottle by suction, there is no pressure involved, so no leaks.

I don't know what the lube was apart from being "Acculube" which is not very specific. Light blue, a bit like kero?

You can buy the air mist units. They have an adjustable needle valve, presumably to adjust the amount of lube mixing with the air.

I have photos showing inside the base of the saw, the air mist unit is on a bracket under the blade. There is a plastic tube pointing at the teeth and close to the teeth, delivering the spray.

LGF Penta saw 01.jpg LGF Penta saw 02.jpg LGF Penta saw 03.jpg
 








 
Back
Top