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Ball Oilers, stupid questions

I rigged up an old pistol grip grease gun with a chainsaw bar tip oil nozzle for the ball lube fittings on my Rong-Fu mill. I took all the guts out of the barrel on the grease gun and welded the end shut. I fill the barrel up with Vactra 2, hold the grease gun upside down so the pump is supplied with oil, and lube the fittings. The grease gun is stored in the upright position so the oil will not creep out. Works VERY well!
 
Never done it but have read to poke a needle hole in a disposable glove and place it over the oil port. Then push the oiler nozzle over that so it seals the oil pressure .
Bill D
 
Never done it but have read to poke a needle hole in a disposable glove and place it over the oil port. Then push the oiler nozzle over that so it seals the oil pressure .
Bill D
Even if you have the correct fitting on your oil gun, put a cotton rag over the tip and go ahead. The oil goes thru' the rag no problem, and the rag provides a seal so oil doesn't escape around the fitting. No need to make a hole in the rag material.

Fittings on lathes are often a bit damaged after a few years, the rag trick works very well.

I actually use an ordinary oil can with rag on my lathe concave oilers.

The rag works well with a grease gun on damaged grease fittings too.

For the Mikron type I think you would need to make a concave fitting for the end of your oil gun. Still use the rag though, it stops any leakage.

I have "pom pom" type oil guns to suit both convex and concave fittings, they would have been supplied with some machine tools years ago. Tecalamit might still sell the pom pom type, but they are poorly made.
 
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I just got one of these. It has both tips and i cheap enough to try.


This is also an option. It looks like it comes with three oimers there in the chip pan, and a free light bulb.

 
LOL think I'll hold out for a Deckel FP1 with a Spiralfräseinrichtung, three oil cans and a light bulb. :p

That funnel king looks suspiciously like the $130 can from Germany linked earlier. (I requested diameter specs for the cup attachment) At $15 not much to lose. Thank you.
 
This arrived today.

oiler.jpg
It oils very well, better than any oil can I have. That is it oils the floor and my hands better than any oil can I have. Tip down vactra 2 drips out. Tip up it drips from the cap. No gasket there at all.

Oh well, for $14 it was sort of an oil can forlorn hope. Save your money.

With better materials and seals it would work a treat. Maybe that is why that Reilang is so spendy.
 
IMO, once you find the right can for a job, mark it what kind of oil it is and what machine it goes with and keep it part of that individual machines kit. Lots of guys/shops like to have their favorite one can for the whole shop, and IME this might work for general use, but leads to frustration when dealing with older or less common fittings, and wrong oil being used in the wrong places, or no oil at all. Most machines have at least a couple tools that are specific to them, and if that machine has points of manual lubrication, I prefer to have a "special" can for each machine, even if the only difference between one and another is what machine name is written on it.
 
It oils very well, better than any oil can I have. That is it oils the floor and my hands better than any oil can I have. Tip down vactra 2 drips out. Tip up it drips from the cap. No gasket there at all.
The hands-on report is appreciated! I have bought some Reilang cans and also their oil-adapted "grease gun" for zerks, but am always on the lookout for a less expensive option that works well. Knowing what does not work well is helpful!
 
The hands-on report is appreciated! I have bought some Reilang cans and also their oil-adapted "grease gun" for zerks, but am always on the lookout for a less expensive option that works well. Knowing what does not work well is helpful!
From the pictures it looks like all the $15-$25 oilers are this crummy design.

I just bought a reilang double pump oil can but fell short of the push oiler. Does it live up to the cost?
 
Problem is there are two different kinds of ball oilers.......the old quality US and English machined brass body and brass ball,and the new Asian /Chinese shit pressed steel body and piece of Chineseium half ball which kink the spring and displace the crap half ball first go...........Did I mention Asian ball oilers are crap?
 








 
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