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Band saw blade brazing

kielbasavw

Aluminum
Joined
Feb 25, 2013
Location
california
Hello. I have a vintage blade brazer, I was wondering if anyone could reccomend what kind of silver solder and flux to use, and a good place to get it. There seems to be quite a few different soldiers.
I need it in very thin small sheets. The places I found online seem to be pretty pricey for the amount. Maybe that's just what they go for?
I've tested the brazer and it seems to work. I just dont have the correct solder, but would suck to spend $60+ on a little piece to find out it doesnt work the way it should. It's from the late 20s early 30s

Thanks
 
Silver solder sheets are common in jewellery making. The terms hard, medium and soft refer to the melting point. All are about the same strength and the "soft" is easier to use.
 
the blade heats to temperature fast and brazes nice. I fold and wrap a wet paper towel about 3/8 from the joint on each side to keep the heat sink to a minimum. I'm not sure not much difference it makes.
 
you use silver brazing rod which melts at a dull red heat. silver solder melts at a much lower temperature and has much less strength.
.
most welding stores have silver brazing kits in 1 oz and some flux. most jewelry making supply web site sell it too as its fairly common in jewelry making
 
i never had any problems with white borax type flux if dried out add a little water. water going to boil off soon enough
.
usually 1 ounce silver brazing kit will like braze 100 band saw blades so it normally be years til you need another
 
I used to buy coil stock as I used my bandsaw to rip wood about 5 hours each week all year. I buy hard solder from SRI (Stan Rubenstein industries). I use white borax flux. The solder is 1" wide tape, forgot the thickness but I think it is .040. I cut a piece of solder tape the length of the scarf or half lap joint. I have been using a half lap joint for years now because of difficulty getting a scarf joint ground correctly. Hard solder is expensive but in tape or sheet form fairly economical.
I can solder 12 to 20 joints per foot of 1" tape solder, depending on the blade width.
mike
 
I used to buy coil stock as I used my bandsaw to rip wood about 5 hours each week all year. I buy hard solder from SRI (Stan Rubenstein industries). I use white borax flux. The solder is 1" wide tape, forgot the thickness but I think it is .040. I cut a piece of solder tape the length of the scarf or half lap joint. I have been using a half lap joint for years now because of difficulty getting a scarf joint ground correctly. Hard solder is expensive but in tape or sheet form fairly economical.
I can solder 12 to 20 joints per foot of 1" tape solder, depending on the blade width.
mike

i use brass brazing rod and borax flux . i already have a 5# tube of 1/16 , and
it works just fine . i have used Harris 50% silver solder + it worked ok....
but so does regular brazing rod . i see no difference in joint quality or
strength when properly prepped and fixtured . braze might require a bit
more heat- but not much . the really huge difference is cost:

$1/ounce VS $40/ounce . seems like a no- brainer to me.
 
Ok thanks for the help everyone. I ended up ordering some harris 50n strip that's. 005 thick and flux. The flux was powdered and sort of tan/pinkish powder that you mix with water.
I was able to successfully braze a blade! But had a little problem.
I put it in my brazer and for some reason was not able to get a good contact to "short out". I think maybe flux kept it from making it contact so it would not head up properly. I ended up zapping it with map gas real quick in order for flux to burn and then the brazer was able to heat up the blade and solder, then clamped it, shut the power off and let it cool while clamped.

Not sure if it was solder or flux that didnt allow it to heat up properly but I'd like to figure it out so it works the way it should. I attempted it several times on scrap blade and always same thing
 
not every one is a tig welder. i have a lincoln tig250, but i prefer brazing . i suppose i'm a machinist way before
a blade welder. the band welder on my doall vertical saw wasn't around when i bought it 25 years ago...

brazing works. i don't have time to reinvent the freakin wheel.
 
If you have a tig try it its secounds tops. i find about 60 amps plenty, but cant stress enough you have to anneal it post weld, i use a small gas torch nozzel on my gas soldering iron, just bring to just bellow dull red and your good to go.
 
I have a pedal, no pedal yeah i would be a lot slower, but it is 60A i generaly set the plant to, txt book is 1 amp a thou, though reality is im generally nearer 2 amps a thou on the plant setting and simply back off if i can't keep up a 1/2" blade is sub 2 seconds arc time if that for me these days, post flow is noticeably longer than weld time! I tig to make money and that means high current and deposit metal, none of this puddle and fill crap, one smooth fluid movement and one near perfect smooth bead across to minimise the grind time. I weld way too much 16 gauge - 1/16" thich ERW tubing these days and again im at just shy of 120 amps for that thickness, times money and all that.

Think this youtube must be you guys at your fastest? Credit were its do though, thats sure is one pretty much a KISS setup if there ever was one!

Indian saw mill blead joint system 😊😊 - YouTube

For what its worth and i know welding is some what akin to the bog cleaning of the metal working trade but in a job shop environment being competent with a TIG sure opens some options for so many things.
 








 
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