cls3277
Plastic
- Joined
- Jan 10, 2012
- Location
- Bohemia, NY
I would love to get everyone's thoughts on tips & tricks for mirror polishing stainless steel flats. Its so darn time consuming that we figured we'd love to hear what other shops do in the hopes of cutting out steps or getting a better final finish.
We do a lot of polishing on 304 Alloy Hot Rolled True Bar and flats. It seems to us that the quality has declined over the past 10 years and that we find more and more pitting as each year passes.
1) We start by grinding in a wide belt sander (timesaver) in grits from 36, 60, 120, 180, 220, 320, 400, 500 & 600. I know 36 sounds too rough, but it seems to be the only way to get the pitting out at times.
2) We then wipe down the bars and then move to a scotchbrite wheel to smooth out any lines from the abrasive.
3) Next we move to a sisal wheel with a cutting buff in a polishing lathe. Wipe part to remove excess compound.
4) Next we move to a green compound (Matchless) on a spiral bound buffing wheel. Wipe part to remove compound.
5) We finish with a loose fleece wheel (soft) with green compound (matchless). We generally get a mirror polish out of the green, without needing to move to the white/gray finish compound. Wipe part to remove compound and clean with soap and water.
Questions we have:
1) We generally use aluminum oxide abrasives. Do you think we'd see better performance with silicon carbide? 3M Trizact?
2) We've seen in some videos on youtube that some people go straight from 220 or 320 to the cut buff. What is your opinion on where you should end up grit wise before you jump to buffing?
3) How much pressure do you typically apply when buffing? Would you agree that as long as you don't feel the piece getting too hot that you are OK?
4) Is it worth paying for the 303 Cold Formed True Bar or 316 Hot Rolled True Bar as a starting point vs the 304 True Bar (that is worth the extra cost!)
5) Would anyone recommend a particularly manufacturer of wheels and compounds?
6) What are peoples thoughts on the best hand held polishing equipment - Metabo?
7) Any other tips / tricks / recommendations?
Thanks!
Chris
We do a lot of polishing on 304 Alloy Hot Rolled True Bar and flats. It seems to us that the quality has declined over the past 10 years and that we find more and more pitting as each year passes.
1) We start by grinding in a wide belt sander (timesaver) in grits from 36, 60, 120, 180, 220, 320, 400, 500 & 600. I know 36 sounds too rough, but it seems to be the only way to get the pitting out at times.
2) We then wipe down the bars and then move to a scotchbrite wheel to smooth out any lines from the abrasive.
3) Next we move to a sisal wheel with a cutting buff in a polishing lathe. Wipe part to remove excess compound.
4) Next we move to a green compound (Matchless) on a spiral bound buffing wheel. Wipe part to remove compound.
5) We finish with a loose fleece wheel (soft) with green compound (matchless). We generally get a mirror polish out of the green, without needing to move to the white/gray finish compound. Wipe part to remove compound and clean with soap and water.
Questions we have:
1) We generally use aluminum oxide abrasives. Do you think we'd see better performance with silicon carbide? 3M Trizact?
2) We've seen in some videos on youtube that some people go straight from 220 or 320 to the cut buff. What is your opinion on where you should end up grit wise before you jump to buffing?
3) How much pressure do you typically apply when buffing? Would you agree that as long as you don't feel the piece getting too hot that you are OK?
4) Is it worth paying for the 303 Cold Formed True Bar or 316 Hot Rolled True Bar as a starting point vs the 304 True Bar (that is worth the extra cost!)
5) Would anyone recommend a particularly manufacturer of wheels and compounds?
6) What are peoples thoughts on the best hand held polishing equipment - Metabo?
7) Any other tips / tricks / recommendations?
Thanks!
Chris