Brass repair recommendations

[bobte2]

I am just starting down the path of machining to assist in watch restoration. I have a question on approach to restore an antique watch tool.
The shafts are loose in the brass holders and should align point to point. See photos. The steel shafts fit in the device and should smoothly and evenly touch points (they do not as the brass has worn over the years. I am thinking about drilling the brass to consistent size all the way through then brass sleeves to fit the steel shafts (the shafts are very consistent in diameter). Another thought was to drill the brass to consistent size and make new steel point shafts. Any other thoughts or suggestions?

Thanks in advance and apologies as I am new to the forum and may be in the wrong place.

Thanks,
Bob

 

[TGTool]

I'm no expert on watchmaking tools or antiques, so take any thoughts for what they're worth.

I'd be inclined to keep as much original as possible, which says use the original steel, particularly since it's still in good shape. So that takes you to sleeving the other parts.

Since you have two separate parts as carriers for the rods, you'll have to do careful setup to ensure that the new holes/sleeves and concentric and square. You can't just depend on a larger drill making the correct hole if the wear is in any way not symmetrical. That means boring, and not simply drilling through. A D-bit might work correctly once everything is indicated in.

 

[Limy Sami]

Where's Rivett?

 

[MrStretch]

That is called an uprighting tool and was generally used when fitting a new cock or bridge to a plate. Did you look closely at the 2 halves to see if they are marked? Try it with all possible alignments.
One can achieve the same in a variety of ways, an inverto staking set, a reasonably well equipped watchmakers lathe or a faceplate with a pump center are a few that come to mind.

 

[eKretz]

That's a tricky one. Definitely will need to be sleeved I'd say. I'd do the sleeving myself, rough drill through (gun drill would be good here) leaving room to finish and sub the rest of the job out to someone with a nice Sunnen hone and have them finish it to "just right" clearance to the steel shafts. Failing that, make a longer than usual lap and do the final sizing that way. I absolutely would not attempt to finish the holes with a drill. I've got an antique staking set that needs the same job done. I'll be doing it one of those two ways.

 

[ptauser]

Sorry,I very much doubt you will have any success repairing this. Effectively, these were made so accurately that a single long rod would smoothly slide through both holes at once with no shake. That takes real accuracy. I only wish I knew how they made them. Just keep it as an interesting antique.
dave.

 

[eKretz]

It can be done as I described with a good hone or lap... The only way as far as I'm aware to get holes that small inline and accurately sized. EDM might work too these days but the finish wouldn't be as nice.

 

[bobte2]

That's a tricky one. Definitely will need to be sleeved I'd say. I'd do the sleeving myself, rough drill through (gun drill would be good here) leaving room to finish and sub the rest of the job out to someone with a nice Sunnen hone and have them finish it to "just right" clearance to the steel shafts. Failing that, make a longer than usual lap and do the final sizing that way. I absolutely would not attempt to finish the holes with a drill. I've got an antique staking set that needs the same job done. I'll be doing it one of those two ways.

That's a tricky one. Definitely will need to be sleeved I'd say. I'd do the sleeving myself, rough drill through (gun drill would be good here) leaving room to finish and sub the rest of the job out to someone with a nice Sunnen hone and have them finish it to "just right" clearance to the steel shafts. Failing that, make a longer than usual lap and do the final sizing that way. I absolutely would not attempt to finish the holes with a drill. I've got an antique staking set that needs the same job done. I'll be doing it one of those two ways.

Thanks. I think I’ll polish it and keep it for display. Im lucky enough to have a good tight K&D staking set as well to accomplish what this does. Was thinking would have been nice to have it working. I am too much of a novice and it wouldn’t be worth the cost to have it done.

Ok back to the hairsprings.

Thanks to everyone for the great advice.

 

[mattthemuppet]

Could woods metal or some other low melting point alloy be used to fill the worn areas, using a long ride to align the two pieces? Sort of like pouring babbitt?

 

[John Allan]

Could woods metal or some other low melting point alloy be used to fill the worn areas, using a long ride to align the two pieces? Sort of like pouring babbitt?

I am in the process of "upgrading" an old 5C spin indexer. The play between the spindle and cast iron housing was about .0045. I thinned down some JB Weld with acetone, and smeared it into one end of the bore. Then ran the oiled spindle into and out of the bore. Did this on each end and reduced the play to about .001 after hardening.
John