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BROTHER SPEEDIO S700X2 PROBING ISSUES - NEED HELP!

Rcgiovannani

Aluminum
Joined
Apr 6, 2015
Hi Guys.

I just got to messing around with my new Brother Speedio S700X2 with C00 control.

Today I was using the machine. I used the probe (Renishaw OMP40-2) to pick up some work offsets and then I ran my first two programs. I used the probe multiple times with some programs that Yamazen provided (the programs use the Renishaw cycles).

I just went to use the probe again (same program as before) and the probe light comes on for a split second (blinks green one time) and then it looks like the control just blows through all the code and nothing happens. There are no errors either. The only parameters I looked at were the High accuracy settings in-between programs, but didn't change any of them.

I can get the cycle to work if I single block it. Half way through if I turn off single block it will finish the cycle, but not update the work offset.

I'm thinking I turned on a setting somewhere for look ahead or something somewhere, but I'm not sure. I contacted Yamazen and the service manager took my machine backup files and said he would look at them tonight. I can't really wait though, the machine was super late on delivery and I need to get parts made.
 
Just a thought, try cleaning the probe windows. I can't say that is it but it's worth a try. Mine will stop dead in it's tracks and still look fine, clean the windows and all is well.
 
Do the built in brother probing macros work? (Turn the probe on manually first, m480 on all of mine) That would tell you if it is a hardware or a program issue.
 
Did you clean the probe windows and change the battery (check the battery contacts also), as suggested earlier?
Does the associated system variable store the current position of the probe when the green light flashes?
 
Make absolutely sure M298 L0 is in your main probing routine/cycle sub program at the top. Probes do strange things when High Accuracy Modes are active. This will shut them off until the cycle ends.

Also, most issues can be traced back to batteries if things suddenly stop working.

Are you using any macros for anything else? Make sure none are the same as Renishaw uses. Stay away from #500-#519, these are typically used for probe calibration.
 
I put M298 (with no L0) and it didn’t make a difference. I will try it with L0 today.

I can change the batteries, but the probe was only installed less than a week ago. Maybe the batteries were no good. But like I said, the probe will come on and stay on if I’m in single block mode. Usually you get blue and red lights when the batteries need replacing.
 
To me this sounds like a wiring/connection issue, most likely the wiring from the fixed IR sensor. The skip signal (the signal that goes from your probe to the machine when object is touched) is constantly or intermittently active when it should not be. This could explain why it is blowing through the code without error and why single block mode stops this. There should be a diagnostics page that shows you the status of this signal.

There are other things that could cause the skip signal to be constant/ intermittent:
Bad lighting activating the fixed sensor.
The probe is faulty and constantly sending a signal.
Electrical interference
Gremlins
 
It started working with M298 L0 ... but that made me more confused in the High Accuracy Mode settings... lol. Ahhhh, haven't learned a new control in a while. Brings me back to the good ole' days.

Anyone want to try and explain that to me? My machine is equipped with High Accuracy Mode BII. I want to activate the highest accuracy mode (with machine default settings). Not sure how to do that. Right now I'm just using M280 and I'm getting rounded edges on tiny parts.

***EDITED - NEVERMIND, DIDN'T REALIZE HIGH ACCURACY MODE WAS A HUGE TOPIC ON HERE A NUMBER OF YEARS AGO - SILLY ME***
 
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Keep in mind accuracy = SLOOOOOOOOOW so use it as sparingly as you can get away with. I too got BII but later found out that using M298 for accuacy is best. I have found that too high a feed rate with M298 enabled at even L3 can make your cycle times longer, not shorter.
 
Keep in mind accuracy = SLOOOOOOOOOW so use it as sparingly as you can get away with. I too got BII but later found out that using M298 for accuacy is best. I have found that too high a feed rate with M298 enabled at even L3 can make your cycle times longer, not shorter.
I'm getting pretty good results with M282 and M281. I'm using very small tools so I'd rather take longer than break tools.

I was told that M281-289 are the BII settings and M298 with an L is the older version / Type A...not sure if that's correct but that's what Yamazen told me.
 
It started working with M298 L0 ... but that made me more confused in the High Accuracy Mode settings... lol. Ahhhh, haven't learned a new control in a while. Brings me back to the good ole' days.

Anyone want to try and explain that to me? My machine is equipped with High Accuracy Mode BII. I want to activate the highest accuracy mode (with machine default settings). Not sure how to do that. Right now I'm just using M280 and I'm getting rounded edges on tiny parts.

***EDITED - NEVERMIND, DIDN'T REALIZE HIGH ACCURACY MODE WAS A HUGE TOPIC ON HERE A NUMBER OF YEARS AGO - SILLY ME***

Glad you got it working. You may have reset the default while poking around in the parameters. For reference, M299 will cancel the mode and put it back to whatever you have set as default in the control.

M298 L5 is for 2D Contour Finishing and one of the only ones I ever honestly use. This prioritizes accuracy over speed, and will decelerate where needed to force accuracy. This will mitigate/eliminate your rounding of external corners and force a tool into a corner in a pocket/inside corner where it would otherwise leave excess material.

M298 L0 turns the accuracy modes OFF, and does not set the machine to Default. It must be off for probing. This goes for Renishaw or Blum/Yamazen cycles, doesn't matter.

@gkoenig will more than likely be in here to explain all this stuff in greater detail, as he literally wrote the book (pdf) on it that most of us originally learned this from.
 
@gkoenig will more than likely be in here to explain all this stuff in greater detail, as he literally wrote the book (pdf) on it that most of us originally learned this from.

I've heard of this magical document, never actually seen it. Can you post a link?
 








 
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