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BT30 Spindle Capabilities

RE: the small dense chips from the roughers. I put some fine mesh screen in the coolant pan from McMaster, used sheet metal screw and strips of Al to hold it down. Makes life a LOT easier. https://www.mcmaster.com/85385T96/
I'm very lazy. I am so happy with my 30 taper machines. If you read the following before, just jump over: I was going through heavy chemo in 2018. With the Brother machines, I was able to work a lot less hours and still keep up. My energy since then is still low (and I'm old) Again, thanks to the Brother machines (and Takasawa lathes) I can keep up. Both are totally reliable if I don't do anything stupid. Which I gotta admit still happens at times. I don't get paid or compensated by the people at Yamazen, but they are the gold standard in my experience.
 
Just curious, did you consider the 40 taper option on the DT?

Besides the extra space for 3 more tools, what are the benefits of the 30 vs 40? Acceleration?

I have a couple DT2 30 tapers that I'm very pleased with. The extra tool capacity was my main reason going 30 taper. Most of my tools are under 1/4" in nickel so I'm not pushing it's limits.

In theory...if the OP opted for the 40 taper...wouldn't he be able to cut and paste the program from the VF?
 
Just curious, did you consider the 40 taper option on the DT?

Besides the extra space for 3 more tools, what are the benefits of the 30 vs 40? Acceleration?

I have a couple DT2 30 tapers that I'm very pleased with. The extra tool capacity was my main reason going 30 taper. Most of my tools are under 1/4" in nickel so I'm not pushing it's limits.

In theory...if the OP opted for the 40 taper...wouldn't he be able to cut and paste the program from the VF?
I think anybody here with a Brother s3/5/700x2 machine will tell you that on their machines they would easily copy and paste it into their 30 taper Brother. On a Haas it could be a bit iffy, that's why were saying to back it off to start and increase as he becomes comfortable and familiar with the machine.
 
i have to ask, 1000 ipm - what machine was this on?
5x10 NewCNC router 30 taper spindle. was slotting with a single flute 1/4" tool think mfg specs it at .006-.008 chipload meant to run it at 150 IPM make sure didn't get any chip welding like plastic likes to do. Actually punched in 1540 IPM didn't realize it til the machine ran that code. Holy sheet I haven't moved that fast in awhile to hit e stop.... by the time I could react tool had already cleared a 4' path.

Machine tops out at 1k feeds and 4k rapids. Little different world from the metalworking but to say I was impressed the tool didn't snap off is an understatement considering the chip load it was putting out.
 
Not duces, but I had a fixed bridge CR Onsrud at my old job, it was new in '07. I ran a bunch of 3/4" plastic plate/sheet that I cut slots in that were 3/4" wide 1/2" deep and 8ft long. I was able to reliably cut at 1,300 ipm at 20,000 with a 2 flute brazed carbide router bit. It would probably have cut faster if I had some pins, blocks, or screws in it to keep it from sliding around, but I honestly didn't need any extra and at that feedrate I could just use vacuum and not worry about it.
That machine would do a max feed of 3,000 ipm if you had some reason to need it. I was at IWF a few years later and they had a new one that they had rapids at 6,000 ipm. When it parked the table, it would make you step back just as a reaction. Probably get used to it at some point, but it was fast.
ya the routers these days are just stupid fast if you have the balls to run em up that high. like you mentioned you have the big variable of vacuum to consider so when you are hauling through parts and one decides to shift on you its not good. i'm still getting up to speed on this new router myself and my rear end pucker factor is still a little high so i've been keeping the feeds/speeds down for now.
 
Just curious, did you consider the 40 taper option on the DT?

Besides the extra space for 3 more tools, what are the benefits of the 30 vs 40? Acceleration?

I have a couple DT2 30 tapers that I'm very pleased with. The extra tool capacity was my main reason going 30 taper. Most of my tools are under 1/4" in nickel so I'm not pushing it's limits.

In theory...if the OP opted for the 40 taper...wouldn't he be able to cut and paste the program from the VF?

I wanted to get the DM2 for the 40 Taper, but both 40T and 30T have the same draw bar spec, so I went with the DT2 for the extra tools and the slightly faster accel/deccel of the spindle.
 
I think anybody here with a Brother s3/5/700x2 machine will tell you that on their machines they would easily copy and paste it into their 30 taper Brother.
I wouldn't, the Speedios are awesome, but it's a different animal.

Speaking of which, @Chips Everywhere, did you consider a Brother? Just curious how the calculation stacked up.
 
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I wanted a Brother, but was not in the budget
The S500 and DT1 should be very close, and depending on options the Brother could be less. I don't know how the S700 would compare to the DT2, need BrotherFrank there.

That is one thing I love about Haas, the online prices. I understand Yamazen is an importer and had more variables, but for standards like the 10k/14 tool S500 and 16k/21 tool S700 it should be doable.
 
Sorry to hear that. Brother is so close in price (S700X2 16k CTSI). Where are you located? I wonder if your location and who you were dealing with (3rd party dealer?) made it less close?
Brooklyn, NY

From what I recall, it was a 20k difference, I tried to get it, but not my call.
 
With the strong dollar; are the import machines getting cheaper? Aren't the brothers made in China?

When I bought my DT'2s I was also looking at a robodrill and I literally could buy 2 machines for the price of one robodrill... with the work I'm doing it made more sense to go with haas.
 
I received my BT30 tooling yesterday. This was the first time I held a BT30 tool holder and pull stud. I quickly understood why one would want to have stick out on the tool holder, and tool be as short as possible.
 
So the machine is up and running, I'm running a pallet of 10 parts per cycle. I've made some parts, but I feel like my roughing can be improved, I am just a bit timid to push it, being new to BT30. Have to make about 500 of these

Here is the part:

Pic1.JPGPic2.JPGPic3.JPG


Raw material dimensions: Aluminum 6061-T6, 2.5"x5.0"X1.5"H , held on by Talon Grips and Pitbull Clamps to the fixture pallet.

I'm using a Helical # 82012, 3/8" 3 flute, 0.06" CR, 35 degree helix, variable pitch chip breaker end mill. 1.25" length below holder in a stub 1.1" end mill holder.

These are my roughing parameters so far:

-Outside Contour: 15k rpm, WOC 0.06" x DOC 0.95" @ 180IMP (0.004" FPT)
-Thin wall outside contour and shallow pocket/shelf (not the small window at the bottom of the tapered pocket): 15k rpm, WOC 0.08" x DOC 0.435" @180IMP (0.004" FPT)
-Tapered Pocket: End mill enters into a pre drilled 5/8 hole to the bottom, cuts from the bottom up. 15k rpm WOC 0.75 x DOC 0.730" @ 157.5IMP (0.0035" FPT)

I don't know if I should be reducing my WOC and increasing my feed or taking a bigger WOC and reducing my feed.

Any inputs into how I can improve my roughing would be greatly appreciated.
 
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