What's new
What's new

Building Lathe Bench / Might I Be Overlooking Something ?

I’m admittedly a bit fuzzy on the sono tube shape; are you suggesting the bench top be cylindrical ? I hadn’t really considered that.
Basically you get 90% of the rigidity you want, to hold the lathe bend ends in a fixed fixed condition (that is they are rigidly held in 6 degrees of freedom) for just 5 bags of cement for a 5 foot long lathe. And its a tube so the chips will fall off of it onto the floor.

You will need to support it on something, so you will need another bag of cement to make some feet on the tube, then stack it on some cinder blocks and bolt it all the way through the stack, to the floor, so it doesnt walk on you when turning something out of balance.

The cement will move a bit for the first month, thats about it.
 
In theory concrete/epoxy filled tube works, reality is it is better than noting- not as good as a solid chunk of steel. You can rabbit hole different alloys if you really want to...
That said a 1” thick plate or um flat bar with some 1 1/2 xs pipe legs with some bracing (all welded) will be far more rigid and mo-better (tm) than any bolted and stacked structure in 1/4 wall tube.
Rectangle Tube cost more per pound than any other shape, and you want pounds. Sometimes the easiest and cheapest way is just old school real chunks of steel.
 
Basically you get 90% of the rigidity you want, to hold the lathe bend ends in a fixed fixed condition (that is they are rigidly held in 6 degrees of freedom) for just 5 bags of cement for a 5 foot long lathe. And its a tube so the chips will fall off of it onto the floor.

You will need to support it on something, so you will need another bag of cement to make some feet on the tube, then stack it on some cinder blocks and bolt it all the way through the stack, to the floor, so it doesnt walk on you when turning something out of balance.

The cement will move a bit for the first month, thats about it.
That’s something to consider. Hey thanks for the suggestion !
 
In theory concrete/epoxy filled tube works, reality is it is better than noting- not as good as a solid chunk of steel. You can rabbit hole different alloys if you really want to...
That said a 1” thick plate or um flat bar with some 1 1/2 xs pipe legs with some bracing (all welded) will be far more rigid and mo-better (tm) than any bolted and stacked structure in 1/4 wall tube.
Rectangle Tube cost more per pound than any other shape, and you want pounds. Sometimes the easiest and cheapest way is just old school real chunks of steel.
I did indeed consider solid steel plate, but in my reading it’s relying on sheer mass to dampen vibrations, rather than material qualities.

From what I’ve read, a tube structure is best for resisting torsion forces (https://physics.stackexchange.com/questions/514821/is-a-square-tube-more-resistant-to-bending-than-a-round-tube#:~:text=Since a round bar doesn't really focus the,round tube will be the same for torsion.)
This is about square tube, specifically, but that’s a hundred-thirty or so bucks more in these dimensions. Rectangle seems like a reasonable compromise. And of course, thicker steel walls (like 3/8”) would be preferable, if not for the higher cost and weight.

Epoxy granite has proven excellent vibration-damping properties (hundreds of web hits, easily searched).

Furthermore, the amount and type of welding proposed (large amounts in very large chunks of steel) is beyond the capacity of my little 80 amp inverter. And I’m just not very good at making my welds look decent.

Given these factors, and a few others mentioned elsewhere, I’m still convinced my proposal is the simplest and most elegant solution within my reach. The internet can drop the steel tube and epoxy off in my driveway, and the rest of the stuff I can pick up on my way to work.

While I certainly wouldn’t turn my nose up at the sort of bench you’ve described, I’d need somebody else to do most of the work, and bring it to my house … and then promise to help me haul it around when the time comes to relocate !
 
Last edited:
Get an old school straight 8 engine block with no heads and bolt it to that.
Bill D
I’ve seen some pretty remarkable things being done with old iron engine blocks. Similarly, I actually own a 300-or-so pound block of solid cast iron with a cast-in handle, which served as a counterweight for a shipping dock bay door for a half-century or so. I use it as a heavy base for my pipe vises, which clamp down on the 2 1/2” column for my 5-inch Wilton-clone swiveling bench vise - so I can use it in basically any orientation. It sees more-or-less constant use.
 
Lot's -O-Words....did you build the %$#@! bench yet ?

Jeesh, get on with it already.
Or go over to the Homeshop forums.
 
Go find a old heavy duty table or desk. Then go buy some 2x4s and frame up a form. Pour the form with concrete. After it cures a bit put it on your found table. Heavy and good and probably under $100.
 
Go find a old heavy duty table or desk. Then go buy some 2x4s and frame up a form. Pour the form with concrete. After it cures a bit put it on your found table. Heavy and good and probably under $100.
Hey thanks for the suggestion - it’s imminently workable. That being said, by this point, I don’t think I’d be satisfied with it, and would eventually just end up building the steel rectangle tube / epoxy granite bench anyway. Bunch of philosophical reasons by now.
 
Or just one guy actually. Well, if he isn't approaching 80. I bought my SB in Iowa where the pickings were very sparse. I watched E-Bay for around a year to find one two states away. I made the trip one weekend to pick it up. The seller was nice enough to meet me half way with no extra charge. It came with a welded steel table which I modified to bolt down to a concrete garage floor. So far I have moved it two times. Hopefully I will not need to move it again.

As for the table, I was more worried about leveling the lathe than vibration. Getting it to cut straight and not with a taper seemed to be more important. The welded steel table that I have has a piece of steel channel welded to the top where the lathe sits. I added levelers to the four table legs and brackets to fix them to one and only one spot on the concrete floor. If your table moves even a fraction of an inch on most concrete floors, that will destroy the leveling. I know this from experience. So, no movement after leveling the table. Then, and only then you can proceed to leveling the lathe on the table. That's my experience and I am absolutely sticking to it.

I suspect that Oregon is a lot like Iowa for second hand machine tools. It could take a long time to find one close enough to avoid expensive, cross country shipping. During my year long search I saw many used lathes being sold in California, on the East Coast, and around Detroit. But the shipping would have been more that the price of the machine. It took a while to find one that was in driving distance.

But I do understand the need to work in a budget. And make the best with what I already have. Jumping from $500 to $1000 or more can be a real difficult proposition for some. Good luck.

Oh, and perhaps you may want to look at this BB, it is for home shop guys:




I see a southbend 9" lathe for $900 on craigs list in Oregon or one for $600 in Washington.
Folks like SB lathes because they unbolt into a few parts that two guys can carry up or down a basement stairway.
Bill D
 
Greetings, Fellow Doers of Things ~

When I grow up, I think I’d like to be a Tool and Die Maker. Between that and Millwright-ing, it seems to be what I’m most preoccupied with in my laughably-limited spare time !

Now I’m probably technically a hobbyist on this front, but I *have* gotten paid a few dozen times for turning and drilling and cutting and even welding steel things over the years. But I’m pretty sure the most I’ve ever paid for tooling on any specific job was a couple hundred bucks - which represents the high-upper limit of my usual budget. I’ve mostly just made do with things I inherited from my (great)-grandpa.

The centerpiece of this humble collection is a partially-functional 1950s <anonymous American> 12” Metal Lathe; in not too bad of shape if you look past the lack of a main leadscrew. So, no threading, no powerfeed, basic things like that most people take for granted. That said, it’d been sitting in the shed for the last couple years, and I finally got a free weekend recently to get it put back together.

Now, what I really like to do with it, is process random scrap junk - usually pretty rusty - into dimensionally-useful parts, that maintain some of their original “charm”. I use a *lot* of rebar. I like making things like handwheels, pan racks, furnishings, mounting brackets, tool handles etc etc that are *obviously* rebar, but shined-up and clear-coated. So for these purposes I’m not terribly impacted by the missing leadscrew, and I don’t feel too bad about getting things dirty. They clean up nicely.

But my lathe doesn’t have a proper bench. It’s sitting on the back porch, on one of those big wooden cable spools, bolted onto a couple inches of beech plywood, with cinderblocks and jackstands supporting the ends. And so while this is functionally better than *no* lathe, I’m deeply annoyed with the flimsy sloppiness of it all.

I’m convinced the next few hundred bucks I should spend, is on a good solid foundation for this marvelous and filthy mess of American iron. And so I’d like to divulge my plan, bouncing it off this illustrious panel of experts, with what must be many thousands of years of combined experience. Without further ado:

***

The Bench.
I’m planning to buy a four-foot long tube of rectangular steel, 4” x 10” with 1/4” wall thickness. This will be sandblasted, inside and out, and the appropriate holes drilled (and perhaps tapped) for mounting bolts. Then, the tube will be fully stuffed with what I figure to be nearly nine gallons of epoxy granite. This will be capped off at the ends for at least long enough to set up, and the whole thing set standing tall upon a vibrating table so as to liberate as many air bubbles as I can shake out. (I may or may not keep the ends capped with steel plate - haven’t decided this detail yet).

For *risers, I plan to use the eight-or-so cement blocks I’ve got laying around - the kind with a single rebar hole through the middle - mortaring them like bricks, and pouring sufficient concrete to fully encase them in a cylindrical (or perhaps conical, or even possibly pyramidal) mold, with steel plate on top suitable to bolt the aforementioned rectangular steel tube benchtop. Preferably, these plates will be firmly fastened to the length of rebar through the bricks, whether by welding or threads (or both).

I’m estimating total costs to run roughly $500 or so, give or take a few. Much of the material I already have, which is at least somewhat informing my strategy to keep costs lower. I also need to be physically capable of disassembing the whole thing and moving it, if necessary - so each component cannot weigh *so* much that I’d need more than an engine puller and sturdy hand truck to shuffle it about.

***
Now, I can’t see any reason why this wouldn’t work fantastically for my purposes, and I don’t really see a more worthy direction to go with my funds. I’m stoked to see what this beast is capable of with a real bench underneath it.

And so the reason I’m here of course is to ask, am I missing something ?

Of course I’ve *thought* about just buying a workbench for it; but in my neck of the woods, something suitable costs nearly if-not-more than what I’m proposing. And honestly, I don’t see how the mass and stiffness I’m putting together won’t just end up being superior to the stock offerings. Furthermore, I feel this to be something with inherent *research* value. I know *I’d* watch that YouTube video !

Thanks everyone for your attention; I look forward to any sincere replies I can get !
The best thing I did was to put an overhead crane above mine.
No more do I horse about with 100# chucks... or 1000# parts.
Life is good.
 
Yes, you overlooked the forum rules. Don't be surprised if this thread gets locked by the site owner. Edit your thread title and delete the name of the lathe for starters.

TOPIC TITLES NEED TO BE DESCRIPTIVE

The worst topic titles are things like-

1. Please Help !
2. Hey everybody, look at this !

But even more specific titles like-

1. Need info on D31
2. G53

Are meaningless or nearly so to many, so will be locked as meaningless.
Why are people who are not the moderator
correcting people who post, and quote them
the rules? ? ? ? ? ? Typically people who do
this, profess allegiance to the rules, like to be
controlled by others, and as an outward display
of their allegiance and love for being controlled
they act like an authority figure themselves, and
parrot the rules over and over. They like to be
a part of the partisan rule making group. This
is why we have people wearing masks while
driving alone in their cars. They are demonstrating
their allegiance to the authority that they desire
receiving control from. Thanks for tipping your
hand for us.

-Doozer
 








 
Back
Top