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Can the Precision Matthews PM-728VT CNC kit able to do micro machining?

If they are making those for $50 material & tooling costs included, then it is probably a gang tool/stack of saw blades and spacers in a horizontal.
With or without numerical control.



Gang tool in a shaper?
Especially if it is a Klopp?

:)

smt
maybe no gang is necessary, and instead of classical skiving, a wedge shaped tool that would create a bur and lift it up in one pass, kind of like a plow is turning earth

with fins this thin, material removing tools need to be extremely sharp, and copper sometimes won't cooperate even then, and can dull a tool quickly too, so I'd expect it to be a nightmare with gang tool setup

and if I had access to wire edm, I would certainly not waste time cutting fins with it, but probably try to make a comb style tool to scratch those fins in, or maybe form in very soft copper, but all this is nonsense really if someone is already making money making these at 20-25$/piece for them to retail at 50, and just cutting it doesn't do either, you need to plate it to prevent corrosion, that is another can of worms on something that has sharp corners...
 
Hi vancbiker:
That is wild!
I've never seen anything like it.
I learned something today, thanks to you.
It's so simple in principle...now why didn't I think of it? :D

Oh yeah... I was stuck on milling or wire cutting and didn't open my mind to other possibilities.
Thanks again for the link... my mind has now been re-opened!
Wonder how long it will last?

Cheers

Marcus
www.implant-mechanix.com
www.vancouverwireedm.com
 
Pretty sure skiving those fins is the best option if any kind of production time is expected to be held.


Milling those with an end mill is a fools game.

this picture just ruined the whole impression of the site for me :D
high_precision_skiving_of_cu_with_0_15mm_fin_and_1mm_fin_gap.jpg
 
What, you think verniers aren't accurate enough to measure the space between some fins ? I gotta surprise for you then .... if you can read, they're just as good as digitals. Maybe better.
I don't know when was last time you tried measuring 1mm spacing with calipers, but it is unreliable at best, not to mention wear and rounded edges on fins, tips just don't reach, not to mention you could dial in 0.5mm on it and not show the other tip and no one would be any wiser, a ruler against those fins was more than enough, I'd have no problem with that to show the scale of the work
 
Really, so what better machines are there for $6K brand new and have similar or better tolerances?
Your budget and your expectations are way, way out of alignment. For the sort of job you are describing, expect the tooling to cost several thousand dollars by the time you get your process dialed in.
The laser you dismissed is probably a much more cost effective solution to cutting an array of small, shallow linear slots.
Another alternative would be stamping. Put your upfront investment into a hardened die (outsource to an EDM shop), and use almost almost any press to make your heat exchanger plates.
 
It would be expensive experiment to buy mill plus control plus assembling it to even try - knowing it is the wrong machine on many levels for that one job.
I think you could use same machine and make steel embossing dies with cool vortex spiraled fins and smash dead soft copper into that. Then sand flat the back.
Or, place big stepper on spindle and use drag knive concept with graver/shaper style tool.

There are many ways to get at what you want, non are both easy or cheap. If you are going to spend real dollars after concept at least use fine silver and have some distinct feature that makes yours better than the Optimus- you will not beat their price.
 
Pretty sure skiving those fins is the best option if any kind of production time is expected to be held.
I would have suggested skiving except for the configuration of the parts the OP showed in photos. Skiving is super efficient at turning a solid block into fins, but not great for making fins "captured" on all sides by solid material, and flush with that material. If OP could accept protruding fins or a moat around the block of fins (and maybe he can), then skiving could be adapted. But he's not doing it with a $6K capital investment.
 
I would say NO to the PM machine running that job. Such deep cuts with mini-end mills would take so much time that the work could not be profitable. Copper that thin likely would not resist cutting forces using anything except a very slow feed rate.
A thin slitting saw might work for steel or aluminum but likely have difficulty with copper cut deeply and so thin... a gang of saws would be better than one...and with having some jig to keep the most outward blades secure/solid.

Possibly a comb-type fixture might be dropped into the parts to get the strength of 4 or more blades to help resist the cutting fourses of the next blade being milled???

A 100-blade comb-type blade/cutter on a high-precision shaper, likely not.

Very minimum dulling of whatever cutting tool would induce pressure to the side pushing away to the side IMHO....so an in-house sharpening process may be due.
Saws are easy to sharpen / mini end mills are difficult to sharpen.

* You will get a huge "at a boy" making that part with any common machine.


 
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personal insult instead of arguing the point?
Unfortunate you feel that way, I was being sympathetic. A look at the photo shows straight walls, no taper (like they should have) and no fillets in the roots (like they should have) so really easy to measure with verniers. With dials I can get within two easy. Maybe same with verniers in good lighting (old blue eyes they ain't what they used to be).

No, the tips on my verniers are not bent over, rounded off, or otherwise trashed. That's because I don't hurl them at hordes of invading zombies, use them to open king crabs, or attempt to dig my way out of the cell late at night when the guards might be sleeping. Concrete dust is bad for the sinuses.

If you don't feel confident you can get within forty thou, dunno but I have seen braille micrometers. Maybe they make those for verniers too ?
 








 
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