Charmilles Robofil 330F alarm

[Utry2win]

2000 Charmilles Robofil 330F

Just purchased it used. Got it hooked up to power and full of water, new filters installed. Fired it up, it is immediately shows Z axis over travel. If you attempt to jog any axis’ or switch to a mode such as REF home, I get a “2155 Water full compensation in progress”. All axis will move in any direction, with the exception of -Z for obvious reasons of it’s already in -Z overtravel.

Any ideas or tips?

I drained a little water from the dirty tank, thinking maybe too much in the machine, but that did not solve anything.

 

[Utry2win]

Update - Cleared the 2155 Water Full Compensation in Progress alarm by cleaning the dirty water side high water level float.

Took the covers loose and off of the upper head/z-axis to uncover the z-axis overtravel switches. Both check functional. Traced them back to the board (ARMA) they plug into. If I unplug them the machine reacts by turning off some contactors and such, so the board is getting the signal that the switches are plugged in and functioning. Also tried bypassing the switch and jumpering at the board side where the switch plugs in. No change in condition. It is worth noting that if i depress the Z+ overtravel switch, I do receive a Z+ overtravel alarm, and it can be cleared with reset once releasing the switch.

So, at this point, I am assuming the signal from the ARMA board to wherever it is supposed to go (assuming FANUC side control from there) is not making it out. Bad ARMA board maybe?

 

[WireEDMServices]

Try initializing the machine by holding the delete button while it's booting up.

 

[Waakzaamheid]

Are you able to job the Z in the positive direction?

 

[Utry2win]

I have this corrected. I called Charmilles phone support (after sending an email to support the day before without reply). I was informed that because we did not purchase the machine from them, yet rather on the used market, we would be required to have a yearly subscription to phone tech support at a whooping $1800/yearly. The next day though, email support responded to us with a procedure to correct the issue. I have attached a PDF of the procedure for others to have for the future.

With that said, we have never encountered a MTB that has required payment for troubleshooting help over the phone or email.

 

[Waakzaamheid]

Glad you were able to get the info from them. From what I've heard, Charmilles support is not to great nowadays.

 

[TXEDM99]

Glad you were able to get the info from them. From what I've heard, Charmilles support is not to great nowadays.

Yes we had a new machine that they could not get right. So we returned it and got another Mitsubishi.

 

[NAST555]

2000 Charmilles Robofil 330F

Just purchased it used. Got it hooked up to power and full of water, new filters installed. Fired it up, it is immediately shows Z axis over travel. If you attempt to jog any axis’ or switch to a mode such as REF home, I get a “2155 Water full compensation in progress”. All axis will move in any direction, with the exception of -Z for obvious reasons of it’s already in -Z overtravel.

Any ideas or tips?

I drained a little water from the dirty tank, thinking maybe too much in the machine, but that did not solve anything.

The "Water Full Compensation in Progress" for my Charmilles means that the water is a bit low. It opens a valve at the back, that I only figured out should be connected to a water supply from a tech where I buy my wire from, and fills the tank to the correct level. Before that I was just filling it manually and overfilled it twice and had to drain.

Now it tops itself up on it's own which is a pleasure. No big dump of water manually that sends the dielect levels up sky high.

 

[Utry2win]

The "Water Full Compensation in Progress" for my Charmilles means that the water is a bit low. It opens a valve at the back, that I only figured out should be connected to a water supply from a tech where I buy my wire from, and fills the tank to the correct level. Before that I was just filling it manually and overfilled it twice and had to drain.

Now it tops itself up on it's own which is a pleasure. No big dump of water manually that sends the dielect levels up sky high.

Thanks for the info. I did notice the auto top off feature. In my case the float sensor in the dirty tank needed some maintenance. For our top off system we have plumbed a 5-stage RO/DI filter to a pressurized 20gal water tank. This tank is always topped off by the RO/DI system, and is plumbed to each of our machines. The Charmilles will auto-fill itself when low. our other machine will just be topped off with a ball valve manually for now. Starting with clean and filtered water for top-off prevents us from going through our DI bottle life quickly, as well as not contaminating the machine with anything else that would be in the local tap water.

I have been super busy and not able to get back over to this machine to keep working on it's commissioning. I still need to take apart both the top and lower heads and clean/replace parts. Learn how to do the greasing routine the manual speaks about (which I have not seen anywhere in the control) and learn to do a vertical alignment. I did make a vertical alignment tool (see attached pictures) as the machine did not come with one. I purchased the carbide plate, but designed and machined the holder. The top of the plate is at exactly .7500". I know I'll need to find a setting/parameter to set this height before using it. Anyone know what parameter/setting this is?

 

[WireEDMServices]

Assuming you have the Fanuc 18i control, parameter 15243 is the height to the center of the eyelet in mm. (20430 in my pic = 20.430mm). You need to add half the thickness of the eyelet to your .7500 plate then convert to mm.

 

[WireEDMServices]

Also, the greasing cycle should be located on the EDM (Config : Adjust) page. If not, there may be a parameter keeping it suppressed. I may be able to help with that if you cant find it.

 

[Utry2win]

Assuming you have the Fanuc 18i control, parameter 15243 is the height to the center of the eyelet in mm. (20430 in my pic = 20.430mm). You need to add half the thickness of the eyelet to your .7500 plate then convert to mm.

I designed the plate to have the top surface of the eyelet exactly at .7500", so by your explanation I assume I need to subtract half the thickness of the eyelet from the .7500" and convert to metric for the parameter? Thank you for the very helpful information!

In response to your help below about the greasing cycle, I did find it where you described, and was successful at completing one (had not been done since Jan 2021 according to the control). I did remove the globs of excess grease inside the machine before running the cycle.

 

[WireEDMServices]

Yes, you would need to subtract half the thickness of the eyelet. Just know that if you ever replace the eyelet, you will need to re-measure. I have some from different manufacturers that are not the same thickness.

 

[Utry2win]

Yes, you would need to subtract half the thickness of the eyelet. Just know that if you ever replace the eyelet, you will need to re-measure. I have some from different manufacturers that are not the same thickness.

Good information to know! Thank you very much.