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Cincinnati Monoset Tool and cutter grinder new user.

Joined
Nov 20, 2009
Location
Rutland, MA
I've been a lurker here for many years.

Over the last 5yrs I've been amassing equipment to start a Metal working school primarily based on forging but also includes Fabrication, Machining, and Foundry.

I was getting ready to use an Alexander B1 pantograph and discovered I don't have any bits in the size needed.

This led me to look at Tool cutters and sharpeners on eBAY and a FB marketplace search brought up this machine.


While I have a basic understanding of machining.. Grinding to contour in complex natures is not a skill known to me.

I'm reaching out here hoping to have some people who have used or own these machines to help on the journey.

There are also some pieces missing like the diamond sharpener, small tool holder and the collar that goes on the spindle to hold the support for??

I started by cleaning the machine with WD40 and towels and tooth brush..

Would love to pick up a parts manual.. The Operators manual while having some information is not as thorough as I'd like.

So if people can recommend a book or 2 that would be so helpful.

I'm a sponge right now... Looking forwards to making some cutters with this machine.
 

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Vintagemachinery.org has lots of manuals. Definitely at least a few for the Monoset.
Hello, Thats a go to site for sure. I have the Operators Manual but was hoping people with experience running them might be willing to assist.

I find that most the threads on all forums run their course and people don't really post back with information/results.

I'm hoping, maybe this thread might turn into a go to for others that get a "new to them" Monoset..

I will post direct questions as they arise.
 
The Monoset is an extremely versatile (and complex) tool making machine. If you just need engraving cutters and various D-bit (single flute) cutters, a benchtop Deckel grinder (or clone) would be vastly simpler to learn how to use.
You are right.. If all I had is an interest in making or sharpening D-style cutters then a Deckel SO or a clone would work very well.

My interest goes much further. The school will be covering many aspects of metal working so this will come with some challenges in terms of tooling and the Monoset will have the ability to address these.

Besides what I paid for this Monoset with all the functions and abilities.. All the deckel SO styles were more expensive if one considers their limitations.

I'm not afraid to spend time learning how to use the machine and see it as fun and challenging.
 
The Monoset is a great grinder with many abilities built into the machine so avoiding the many attachments and fixture needed with a typical Tc grinder. But its operator’s manual does not give very much cutting tool design information. It is good to have an operator’s manual from other Tc grinders to get cutting tool design information. Cincinnati #2, Ko Lee and Landis are a few god ones.

Best to hold a cutter to the parked wheel and try to visualize what the grind action will be and then adjust the machine to be near the set up.
Cutting edges often include compound angles so often it can be good to spin (circle grind) the form (shape) and then add clearance at least on the first one being made so you know the little off set needed.
 
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The Monoset is a great grinder with many abilities built into the machine so avoiding the many attachments and fixture needed with a typical Tc grinder. But its operator’s manual does not give very much cutting tool design information. It is good to have an operator’s manual from other Tc grinders to get cutting tool design information. Cincinnati #2, Ko Lee and Landis are a few god ones.

Best to hold a cutter to the parked wheel and try to visualize what the grind action will be and then adjust the machine to be near the set up.
Cutting edges often include compound angles so often it can be good to spin (circle grind) the form (shape) and then add clearance at least on the first one being made so you know the little off set needed.
Thanks.. It's operator manual reads like I've been a Monoset operator for years. I will look for some of the books you mention.. I did download some of the books from the Abrasives page here..

Your point about visualization is a great one.. With regular grinding when I get (very bad dyslexia) confused I'll hold a bit of the same style next to the one I'm working on.. I imagine this same behavior when first getting going might be helpful.

I have plenty of grinding wheels.. I need to order up some HSS and Carbide blanks and start playing.
It seems there are functions (clearancing) built in and currently invisible to me.

Do you have a manual diamond dresser like J&S fluidmotion or Meyer Radiform you would recommend?
 
This is also a machine on which DROs are *very* handy.
This is something I might look into in the future..

Getting used to the machine and getting a better understanding how each function intersects right now is high on my list.
I did just buy a bunch of items missing from the machine like the Morse collets, ID grinder and such..

Getting some blanks and experimenting will help a lot to see the relationship between each change..

Is there a favorite place to buy some 3" blanks from in HSS and Carbide?
 
Old is ok in my book.. Most of if not all my machines are turn of the last century.. My newest 2D mill is mid 90's..

I have a 1"X8" rolling mill from 1892.. So..

If you have a model you like please share it..
 
Getting some blanks and experimenting will help a lot to see the relationship between each change..

Is there a favorite place to buy some 3" blanks from in HSS and Carbide?
Just about anyone will have drill blanks. Consider using drill rod for your practice. Easy to work, and you can do a shop heat treat if it works.
 
-Another thing /method with using Tc grinders is to use the likes of a 6" scale to lay upon a tool cutting edge surface to set a tool edge to horizontal or vertical with looking across that straight edge to eyeball/sight some horizontal or vertical object about the shop or on the machine.
This, because the protractors on fixtures are not accurate if the tool edge is not vertical or horizontal.
-Good to know that pushing back an end the flute helix changes the tooth end horizontal attitude, some time you set/make the edge off so to grinds to horizontal or vertical.
-Another handy helper is to have a set of gauges for 5, 10, 12, degrees ground on the end of perhaps 1/2 x .03 x 4" long shim stock. These to hold against a tool to eyeball clearance.
-The rule for tooth rest finger drop for clearance is Diameter x Desired clearance x 9 = finger drop. [ "6"dia x 8*clr x 9=2304,] so .230" is the finger rise or drop.
-Another thing. often it can be quick to eyball ta tooth edge and come to lightly tocle grind to match the angles rather than trying to protractor set the tooth angles.
 
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Here one can listen to and read the Cinci Tc grinder mauual..It is like the How to Run a Lathe book ..a should read if one wants to know Tool grinding. *This older version has things left out of newer versions,
Important page 95-96-97-114

 
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I guess they really don't make 'em like they used to. What changes have you noticed? I haven't bought any for years, living on my old supplies.

New stuff is *okay* just not as long lasting as the old stuff, won't hold an edge as long. I used to use Cleveland Mo-Max all the time, loved it. Bought some new stuff and was resharpening *way* more often. Noticed it was not just a fluke, it was that way with all the new stuff that's now made in India, Mexico, etc. Same with the files. I think QC is just lax in these other places. So I just hunt for NOS any more.
 








 
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