Coolant recommendations for Copper and Alum, currently using Blaser Synergy 735

[Thermo_man]

We currently run Blaser Synergy 735 in our Haas VMs and while it is fantastic on 6061 aluminum, it seems to attack the 110 copper we run. Also, the Synergy 735 attacks the zinc plating used in the Haas and the Mist-away units and turns into a sticky mess with yellow and white residues. We have to wash the copper parts immediately to prevent staining.

We typically run 50% Al6061 and 50% Cu110 and nothing else. We use RO/DI water with TDS between 0 and 2

I contacted our Blaser rep and he suggested Blasocut BC 25 SW. I also see there is a Blasocut BC 25 MD version that states that it is better for copper and zinc but the rep did not mention this version. (why?)

I am looking for any feedback from anyone that has tried the above and what they like don't like about it.

Also, any recommendations or thoughts for coolants that you find is compatible with aluminum, copper and zinc.

Andy

 

[Blaser Swisslube]

Hey Andy, we know you're looking for user feedback, but feel free to message us and we can see why the rep didn't recommend BC 25 MD. It very well could have to do with the initial water test making SW more compatible for your machining needs. We're here to help and hope you find the coolant solution best for your applications.

 

[empower]

qualichem 251c

 

[the average Joe]

I'm surprised one of the old timers haven't popped in to recommend milk as a lubricant for machining copper.

Can't imagine filling a coolant tank with it though...

 

[BT Fabrication]

RO and DI water will like to pull minerals out of things when below about 20 if i remember correctly. they say to fill with regular water for first fill then top up with ro or DI water to prevent buildup of minerals from top ups.

 

[DouglasJRizzo]

I used Qualichem Extreme Cut 251 with excellent results on tool life and part appearence.

 

[Shawn_Laughlin]

Did you get your coolant problem fixed? I’d be more than happy to pay you to tell me the coolant that fixed your problem. I’m a small shop and these coolant changes and disposals are killing me.
99 percent of what I cut is c84400 brass or whatever the foundry decides to mix that day but usually it’s over zinced and my coolant doesn’t last 2 moths. After a couple days it’s starting to go blue and after a week it’s etching the parts faster than I can rinse the parts. It’s also causing the shaving to react with the table and soft jaws corroding everything including the way covers. Not good at all.

 

[Inducto_Writeup]

Did you get your coolant problem fixed? I’d be more than happy to pay you to tell me the coolant that fixed your problem. I’m a small shop and these coolant changes and disposals are killing me.
99 percent of what I cut is c84400 brass or whatever the foundry decides to mix that day but usually it’s over zinced and my coolant doesn’t last 2 moths. After a couple days it’s starting to go blue and after a week it’s etching the parts faster than I can rinse the parts. It’s also causing the shaving to react with the table and soft jaws corroding everything including the way covers. Not good at all.

I suppose I'll finally make an account.
Current machine shop I'm running we use Falcon Industrial Durakut 601EP. Pretty cheap, through our local distributor it's like $1k a drum, even cheaper if you can buy IBC tanks.
We mostly process Copper, Brass, Aluminum, and a number of plastics, resins, and other non-ferrous materials. We run it around 5-9% and it doesn't have any issues with etching plastics or leaving corrosion on copper or brass. Just mixed with decent tap water. We clean tanks on the machines every 6 or 12 months depending on what they run (some run resin-bonded canvas or fiberglass [g10/fr4] or gpo 1/2/3 dry and the resulting powder requires cleaning out the coolant tank because operators are usually too lazy to remember to swap the tanks for dry bins and then rinse the machine down before going back to a coolant job). Compared to what we ran at the foundry machine shop, this stuff doesn't really leave goo everywhere. Also never foams. Heck, even when it dries on the floor it doesn't leave it slippery (unless you get it wet there again) so it's an easy mop job.


It claims it's also suitable for chrome and nickel alloys, inconel, HSS, titanium etc but I'm not sure I'd trust it for that at the recommended concentration.