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Correcting Slop on Plate Roller End?


Hot Rolled
May 31, 2013
It's an older Lown G500, 10ga x 50" capacity. I bought it cheap from HGR. Works great for most of my needs, but I noticed on larger pieces, it was rolling a little inconsistently from one end to the other, making a very slight funnel shape. I can adjust the far end with an adjusting screw to get it to roll consistently, but then if I change material thickness, it needed to be adjusted again. After looking into it a little, I found that the far end of the upper roll that can lift up to allow the material to be pulled out has a pretty sloppy fit. I attached pictures to show the "joint" I'm referring to. When it's closed nice and tight, I can wiggle the upper roller about 1/16" or so on that far end. I'm not too familiar with these types of machines, is this pretty typical for plate rollers? Or any ideas on how to correct this without having to remove the roll, build up the tapered end, and re-machine it?


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In my experience it's typical for them to wear out, especially when not lubricated.
I'm not familiar with your exact machine but a bronze bushing or similar may need to be fitted to correct for the slop.
The tapered fit is kind of odd. I wonder if they were relying on the taper to compensate for wear over the machine's lifetime.
I'd press the bushing onto the roller because the cast iron likely has a grain structure high in graphite that will help lubricate, but there are variables that affect that.
I have a 50" Enco that someone installed a wall type light switch on. Someone at some point must have switched it on and it got left running (it looked like) for weeks as some of the roller ends and support housings were clapped out real bad. I re-machined the housings and fitted steel bushings, then trued up the ends of the rollers. No bronze bushings, but I do keep things well lubed.
The taper is needed to allow a swinging end bearing to fit smoothly onto the roller.........hardly a difficult task to fit a tapered bushing to suit...........Ive noticed that sheet metal workers have an aversion to grease .
As stayed, the taper is required and can wear abnormally if the end lock is not fully engaged as well. Depending on who used it before you, they could have mass produced small things where people to put the lift end back on not locked, so they don't have to constantly undo the lock. It's not a huge wear, but it would move the taper end to only a single point end being a little off. I noticed this with a small roller I purchased years ago, but I bought it to use it wrong anyways.

Brass shims work, but you will have to redo that shim quite often due to the standard use it will see. Grease is always your best friend in this setup.

A permenant fix is to remove the roller, weld it up, and machine and harden the end back up. Lots of money depending on use and how critical it is to your use.
Well you all pretty much affirmed what I was thinking. We only plan on using this machine MAYBE once per week, so we'll just have to live with the slop. Though if it gets to be too annoying, we may consider machining out the swing arm and pressing in a bushing there. I never thought of that...
Have you checked that the swing arm is locking down tight against the frame? Is the top roller in the correct position? Any chance it has been pushed towards the headstock? Is the swing arm bearing oval in shape with all the wear at the top? Is there a bushing in the swing arm? You may be able to adjust things to take out some of the play.
Mine has a large bronze bushing and even with its very advanced age there is no slop in the tapered top roller bearing.