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Cutting #8-32 threaded rods

fmenard123

Plastic
Joined
Mar 4, 2022
Hello, I want to cut meter long sections of zinc plated steel #8-32 threaded rods into 2 inch sections and chamfer one of the two ends of the 2 inch sections. I’ve tried a few ways and a vise with some duct tape on the mouths holding the rod still under a fine toothed metal hacksaw seems be the fastest but requires post processing with holding the 2 inch grub under a deburring drill bit used a a chamfering die. I am looking at options to have this done in a way that’s semi automated as cost efficiently as possible. Anybody has a good idea ? I am thinking at a jig for a CNC and am debating on cutting from the top or from the side and what drill bit would be most able to do the job. Anyone with some advice ?
 
battery powered band saw, work stop, and deburr/chamfer with belt or drum sander, should be good for 300-400 pcs an hour. if your tolerances are under .008 then you need a lathe.
 
Not suggesting this method but those multi-purpose hand tools that crimp and cut insulation have thread holes
for 8-32. The 8-32 size is in the middle of the cutting range. The stuff you have is easily sheared by hand.
The ends would not be square. I have a large paper shear that is 3' long. That would work too.

The stuff you are using will rust on the ends.
 
Hello, I want to cut meter long sections of zinc plated steel #8-32 threaded rods into 2 inch sections and chamfer one of the two ends of the 2 inch sections. I’ve tried a few ways and a vise with some duct tape on the mouths holding the rod still under a fine toothed metal hacksaw seems be the fastest but requires post processing with holding the 2 inch grub under a deburring drill bit used a a chamfering die. I am looking at options to have this done in a way that’s semi automated as cost efficiently as possible. Anybody has a good idea ? I am thinking at a jig for a CNC and am debating on cutting from the top or from the side and what drill bit would be most able to do the job. Anyone with some advice ?

I use a mini chop saw that utilizes a thin cutoff wheel. It incorporates a small clamp which I added a threaded stop.

I have done thousands of cutoff operations with small threaded stock.

Short of going fully automated it's the quickest way I've found.

I also have a harding turret lathe(hc) with collet handle for the finish work.

Hodge
 
How many pieces are required? Volume will aid in deciding on a suitable process. It is most unlikely that a drill bit would be involved in any case.

Larry
OP is in Quebec, and likely a French speaker. Probably means end mill or cutter rather than drill bit.

As said, knowing how many pieces have to be cut would help with suggestions. Or just buy them cut to length: https://www.mcmaster.com/91565A836/
 
McMaster does made-to-order lengths. Call them.

If you insist on DIY, I would use a chop saw with an abrasive blade. Bundle many lengths, a dozen or more.

After cutting, you can use a shop made beveling tool in a hand drill to quickly debur the ends. I made a 1/4" deburing tool from some rod by drilling a 1/4" hole in the end and then a second hole at 45 degrees to that one to hold a scrap of HSS that was sharpened to trim the bevel on the edge. A third hole for a set screw to hold the cutter in place. An axial hole and another set screw can be used as a depth stop.

Strap the hand drill down on the bench or in the bench vise and quickly insert the cut ends in the tool. Should only take a second or two per end. Wear gloves.
 
I bought several size threaded rods from various suppliers. McMaster Carr, Bolt depot, Micro Fasteners etc. Less expensive than making my own. I have rods from 2/56 up to 1/4-20. Most come in 3'-0" lengths.
 
I had to make a total of four, six inch long, 1/4-20 studs. I cut to rough length with bolt cutters then chucked in a lathe and cleaned up the ends.
Quicker then moving outside to mount a cutoff wheel in the angle grinder.
Bill D
 
I'd probably cut a nut on one side. This would allow you to clamp it pretty firmly without damage. If you have 100, easy enough to chamfer the end while uncut, clamp, saw, and then you could probably just use a piece of drilled and tapped barstock to hold the already chamfered end to chamfer the just cut end.

If you're doing 10,000, well, my home-shop naivete won't help I'm afraid. Good luck.
 
Threaded rod; 8-32 x 2" long is called a THREADED STUD. They are a standard part which is readily available in a number of alloys.


And YES, they will have a chamfer on both ends.
 








 
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