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Dean Smith & Grace 17 Toolroom

I think we’re dialed in! Not so much as a whimper when all the parameters are in order. I’m getting a really nice finish as well when I take light cuts with the right insert. No telegraphing like I had on my Bradford.
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FJsapper,

Apologies for not explaining my post - I thought it possible you might not have come across the type of fuse where you simply replace the fuse wire. I have them in my 1950's house (ceramic versions), but a modern house or a machine would not have them.
It probably depends how old you are :) or maybe how old your machinery is.
You nailed it, thanks! Upon closer inspection the back side of the fuse lists the wire gauge spec for each amp load. Without understanding that these were rebuildable I failed to put 2 and 2 together.

I deconstructed some larger wound wire for the appropriate gauge strand for 15a. It’s not a tinned piece but I’ve heard I can use solder to remedy that, I’ll give it a few days to make sure I have all the kinks worked out and then replace it.
 
Up and running again, getting the cross holes bored for the new chuck back plate now. This has been a very annoying project without a proper sized mill at my disposal. I didn’t have enough daylight on my current mill so had to use a funky setup on the lathe. I spade drilled the hole open and will finish out with a boring head.

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Well I think I’m home free now! Just need to fit a little boss extension to give the set-tru chuck to have something to push on. I couldn’t get a thick enough piece of steel to have it done in one shot.

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Finally reached a point where I needed my taper attachment working. The machine came without the bracket, so I sourced what I believe to be a Monarch bracket. Basically was a cut and dry affair. I made the proper incantations and cast a spell on a 6061 bar so that everything was in alignment. Voila! Next project will be to make a base for a steady rest that I sourced…

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Nice progress on the lathe.

Since all T17 folks are here, can you any of you knowledgeable sorts tell me, if I was standing in front of a T17, how would I

1) tell if its the roller bearings or plain bearing headstock
2) whether its a D1-8 cam lock or their quick mount system

I'm looking at one and just want to know what I'm getting into. I have a 13x42 so am part of club and need no convincing on them, but the T17 has some uniqueness that makes it new to me.

Any chance there is a pdf of manual kicking around, hopefully for free (would like to read it before buying the lathe)
:)
 
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Can you any of you knowledgeable folks tell me, if I was standing in front of a T17, how would I

1) tell if its the roller bearings or plain bearing headstock
2) whether its a D1-8 cam lock or their quick mount system

I'm looking at one and just want to know what I'm getting into. I have a 13x42 so am part of club and need no convincing on them, but the T17 has some uniqueness that makes it new to me.

Any chance there is a pdf of manual kicking around, hopefully for free :)
In my experience the plate on the front of the headstock usually tells you if the machine is a roller bearing machine or not.

Regards Tyrone
 
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Nice progress on the lathe.

Since all T17 folks are here, can you any of you knowledgeable sorts tell me, if I was standing in front of a T17, how would I

1) tell if its the roller bearings or plain bearing headstock
2) whether its a D1-8 cam lock or their quick mount system

I'm looking at one and just want to know what I'm getting into. I have a 13x42 so am part of club and need no convincing on them, but the T17 has some uniqueness that makes it new to me.

Any chance there is a pdf of manual kicking around, hopefully for free (would like to read it before buying the lathe)
:)

The proprietary DSG mount style doesn’t have a typical back-plate from what I’ve seen. The two factory chucks that came with my machine had the mounting plate integral to the chuck body itself and they were serialized to the machine. Making a new back-plate is totally doable but it’s not as trivial a process as other styles and the way everything locks together you’ll need to start off with a 3”x10” round slug.
 
Nice progress on the lathe.

Since all T17 folks are here, can you any of you knowledgeable sorts tell me, if I was standing in front of a T17, how would I

1) tell if its the roller bearings or plain bearing headstock
2) whether its a D1-8 cam lock or their quick mount system

I'm looking at one and just want to know what I'm getting into. I have a 13x42 so am part of club and need no convincing on them, but the T17 has some uniqueness that makes it new to me.

Any chance there is a pdf of manual kicking around, hopefully for free (would like to read it before buying the lathe)
:)
As has been said, the serial/model plate on the headstock should say roller or plain bearing.

The 'fast' spindle nose was only found on earlier models - from what I have seen up until around 1957 or so. The 17s changed from round to flat top headstocks in 1958 I think. We have a 'normal' 17 with the earlier rounded lid but a D1-8 spindle nose, but our old round top 17T was a fast nose (but I can't recall what year it was)
 
There was a 3rd option - flat nose. Bolt-on chucks. I have one of those, IIRC it's a 1954 model.

Bit of a PITA but not too bad as I don't change chucks often.

PDW
 
What a nice machine !! Have you checked with Tony for any documentation ?
Says they have manuals for most machines
animal
 
Had occasion to cut metric threads so I printed up some gears, seems to be working so far! I made one 127t and one 80t gear. Printing was straightforward using an SLA tough resin, had to try a few iterations of orientation and support to get things just right. Printing with the gear standing vertical worked best, I used little supports between the gear teeth with overhangs during printing and that worked well. After cleanup, I bored them out to a snug fit and then massaged the keyways slightly to mount.

There was some distortion evident when I did my first run-in and a few teeth were spit out promptly. I attribute this to some sagging in a few areas that were less supported. After that, things ran smoothly enough. I’ll cut my first threads tomorrow so we’ll see how it turns out. This is for an automotive tie rod link application so not exactly high precision work, if I can get 1/2” of passable threads I’ll call this a success! IMG_4122.jpeg
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Amazing. In my dreams I find a DS&G 17T "special" like they made for Rolls-Royce with both the roller bearings and the huge hand scraped white bearing. Even ordinary DS&G lathes are super rare Stateside with the toolroom lathes even more so. Incredible find and count me as jealous...
 
Amazing. In my dreams I find a DS&G 17T "special" like they made for Rolls-Royce with both the roller bearings and the huge hand scraped white bearing. Even ordinary DS&G lathes are super rare Stateside with the toolroom lathes even more so. Incredible find and count me as jealous...
That’s the way mine is set up, plain bearing front and two rollers middle and aft. It came from an auction just outside of Warner Robbins from a factory that apparently fell in on an old Lockheed operation when it shut down. Not sure if there is any difference between mine and the Rolls machines, it sure makes a nice cut though….you know, when you accidentally stumble on that magic RPM/insert combo? 😂
 








 
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