What would the same property be now though?
The home counties have long been way above the average price.
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Dean Smith Grace Lathe Owners
- Thread starter M. Moore
- Start date
- Replies 1,276
- Views 495,739
The home counties have long been way above the average price.
Limy Sami
Diamond
- Joined
- Jan 7, 2007
- Location
- Norfolk, UK
£550 k +
Overland
Stainless
- Joined
- Nov 19, 2017
- Location
- Greenville, SC
Did anyone notice the post code on the address ?
Birmingham 24.
Simpler times....
Bob
Birmingham 24.
Simpler times....
Bob
Greetings one and all, straight to the point.
I have bought a 17T 36" 7_58
My levelling procedure was;
a) Placing a .02mm level on the saddle, perpendicular to the ways with the saddle as close to the headstock as possible. Levelled across the ways by using all 4 bolts.
b) Same procedure at the tailstock end.
c) Result, level at either end of the ways but a pronounced dip in the middle
on the apron side.
d) Moved saddle to position 500mm out from headstock and levelled the ways by tweaking front bolt at tailstock end. Result that the saddle remained level all the way back to the headstock except for the last 50mm.
Test cut; 38mm ms bar with150mm projection out from a 4 jaw chuck.
2 passes at 001" doc. Result 03mm taper over 150mm. Tapering down from tailstock to chuck.
My question is, is my procedure correct and how to fine tune to achieve a true cut?
Regards Chris. T_V_I aka The Village Idiot.
I have bought a 17T 36" 7_58
My levelling procedure was;
a) Placing a .02mm level on the saddle, perpendicular to the ways with the saddle as close to the headstock as possible. Levelled across the ways by using all 4 bolts.
b) Same procedure at the tailstock end.
c) Result, level at either end of the ways but a pronounced dip in the middle
on the apron side.
d) Moved saddle to position 500mm out from headstock and levelled the ways by tweaking front bolt at tailstock end. Result that the saddle remained level all the way back to the headstock except for the last 50mm.
Test cut; 38mm ms bar with150mm projection out from a 4 jaw chuck.
2 passes at 001" doc. Result 03mm taper over 150mm. Tapering down from tailstock to chuck.
My question is, is my procedure correct and how to fine tune to achieve a true cut?
Regards Chris. T_V_I aka The Village Idiot.
When I leveled my 13-1, I got it level using the 4 corner screws and then brought the middle pair in (RH headstock end) until you could just see the bubble on the level move a fraction, but that was a machine with the one piece base casting.
My new 1307 obviously has two separate bases so the bed ought to flex more, I haven't levelled it yet.
Cheers Mate, thanks for going to the effort of posting that section of the manual.
L.Svedberg
Plastic
- Joined
- Jan 16, 2021
Just a quick and perhaps stupid question...when using the drilling attachment on the cross slide on my 1910 DSG (or any other model, I suppose), do I always need to indicate the center of the attachment "quill" to get it concentric to the spindle, or should there be some arrangement on my cross slide (such as a precision dowel pin into the saddle) to always be bang on center? My lathe may be missing a part or two.
Thanks, Lasse Svedberg
Thanks, Lasse Svedberg
Attachments
There should be a small rectangular steel block affixed to the saddle top, that you pull the drilling bracket into from the rear of the lathe, the block on the underside of your drilling bracket at the front is the block that contacts the block fitted to the lathe to align it when needed.
The block should be held with a couple screws and a dowel pin.
I'm pretty sure the three holes you can see below your QCTP are those for the factory fitted block.
My lathe is also missing such a block which I need to make and fit for the drilling bracket I have managed to get.
DSG fitted stops on their drilling bracket in various places over the years.
L.Svedberg
Plastic
- Joined
- Jan 16, 2021
L.Svedberg
Plastic
- Joined
- Jan 16, 2021
But what about the positioning of the attachment onto the cross slide? I mean, this positioning block will make the slide stop, but something similar would have to be used to get the attachment to sit in the correct position each time it is clamped..?
sfriedberg
Diamond
- Joined
- Oct 14, 2010
- Location
- Oregon, USA
The stop is on the saddle. Clamp the attachment to the cross slide almost anywhere, then retract the cross slide until the attachment hits the stop. If that's too much retraction of the cross slide, unclamp the attachment, move the cross slide in "a sufficient amount", reclamp the attachment relatively near the stop, then retract the cross slide to bring the attachment back into firm contact with the stop.
This puts the attachment at a fixed X position, in alignment with the spindle, almost regardless of where it is clamped to the cross slide, or the cross slide X position.
This puts the attachment at a fixed X position, in alignment with the spindle, almost regardless of where it is clamped to the cross slide, or the cross slide X position.
Just remember to lock the cross slide when you are using the drilling bracket, especially if the cross slide screw has plenty of slack.
The earlier machines the drilling bracket clamps to dovetails that are on the saddle directly so you just pull the bracket back into the stop block and tighten the clamp bolts, but to do this they had to have a very short cross slide to make room for it, resulting in wear issues and rocking cross slides.
The 1969 redesign machines, 1307, 1609, 1910, 2112 etc fixed that problem with full length cross slides, the minor disadvantage being that you could no longer remove the screw guard behind for a little extra swing, for instance the 1307 swings 7" over the cross slide but the previous 13-1 swings 8 1/4" with the guard removed.
The earlier machines the drilling bracket clamps to dovetails that are on the saddle directly so you just pull the bracket back into the stop block and tighten the clamp bolts, but to do this they had to have a very short cross slide to make room for it, resulting in wear issues and rocking cross slides.
The 1969 redesign machines, 1307, 1609, 1910, 2112 etc fixed that problem with full length cross slides, the minor disadvantage being that you could no longer remove the screw guard behind for a little extra swing, for instance the 1307 swings 7" over the cross slide but the previous 13-1 swings 8 1/4" with the guard removed.
L.Svedberg
Plastic
- Joined
- Jan 16, 2021
You, Sir, are a genius. As opposed to myself, not realizing the obvious... Thanks!
Colt Ables
Plastic
- Joined
- Feb 5, 2022
What should one look for when looking at a DSG 15?
From reading through here it seems like the main things are:
Headstock bearings (gonna be hard with no power)
Way/carriage wear
Change gears are present. How many should there be?
“D” vs Fastloc spindle
I found this flat top 3 hours from me. Guy picked it up from a sugar cane mill and it has been sitting for 10ish years in his shop without power. They put a DRO on it about a year bf it was decommissioned.
It appears the S/N is 35960-17-65 and has a roller bearing head.
I have requested more pics, info, and S/N confrontation. I hope it has a taper and is in decent shape. Any info or advise is welcome as I know nothing about a DSG.
From reading through here it seems like the main things are:
Headstock bearings (gonna be hard with no power)
Way/carriage wear
Change gears are present. How many should there be?
“D” vs Fastloc spindle
I found this flat top 3 hours from me. Guy picked it up from a sugar cane mill and it has been sitting for 10ish years in his shop without power. They put a DRO on it about a year bf it was decommissioned.
It appears the S/N is 35960-17-65 and has a roller bearing head.
I have requested more pics, info, and S/N confrontation. I hope it has a taper and is in decent shape. Any info or advise is welcome as I know nothing about a DSG.
Attachments
Last edited:
All the usual used lathe evaluation applies, wear, damage, accessories etc, if no power you are a bit limited.
A 15" is a reduced swing 17" so you don't see many of them, as I'm guessing the cost difference was minimal.
It will be a D1 spindle if its a 65 year, they changed in mid 50's.
If they let you take imperial hex keys and pull the headstock cover for inspection, the cover is aluminium so isn't that heavy to get off, none I have seen have had a gasket to worry about.
Ask if it has the drilling bracket, a really quite useful accessory intended for carriage power drilling.
A 15" is a reduced swing 17" so you don't see many of them, as I'm guessing the cost difference was minimal.
It will be a D1 spindle if its a 65 year, they changed in mid 50's.
If they let you take imperial hex keys and pull the headstock cover for inspection, the cover is aluminium so isn't that heavy to get off, none I have seen have had a gasket to worry about.
Ask if it has the drilling bracket, a really quite useful accessory intended for carriage power drilling.
Colt Ables
Plastic
- Joined
- Feb 5, 2022
Thanks @dutchgray and yes I do wish I could power it up. I don't feel like they would have a problem with time to look over the machine properly as they have had it for sale for some time and you also must take 2 other machines I am not really interested in.
Has it been listed for so long due to issues, mislabeled ad listing, the machine is just too big for most to even entertain, or because it is a package deal? Only an inspection will tell.
Do you happen to know what D1 this would be? I see references for 13 and 17, but not the 15.
Do you think parts limitations would be a concern for the 15? As you mentioned, and from my research, they are not that common.
Has it been listed for so long due to issues, mislabeled ad listing, the machine is just too big for most to even entertain, or because it is a package deal? Only an inspection will tell.
Do you happen to know what D1 this would be? I see references for 13 and 17, but not the 15.
Do you think parts limitations would be a concern for the 15? As you mentioned, and from my research, they are not that common.
The 15 and 17 are D1-8
Many parts will be the same as on the 17, getting any new parts now could be difficult, probably have to make them yourself. I doubt you'd need many parts though, unless something on it is broken.
Change gears the standard set for the gearbox top chart is 40, 50, 40
Then for the rest of the inch pitches and metric and most BA is 35, 45, 55, 60, 63, 65.
Then 66 and a second 50 is needed for a bunch of module pitches and 38 for 8ba and 4 3/4, 9 1/2, 19 and 38 tpi.
You can get a good reproduction manual from lathes.co.uk.
Many parts will be the same as on the 17, getting any new parts now could be difficult, probably have to make them yourself. I doubt you'd need many parts though, unless something on it is broken.
Change gears the standard set for the gearbox top chart is 40, 50, 40
Then for the rest of the inch pitches and metric and most BA is 35, 45, 55, 60, 63, 65.
Then 66 and a second 50 is needed for a bunch of module pitches and 38 for 8ba and 4 3/4, 9 1/2, 19 and 38 tpi.
You can get a good reproduction manual from lathes.co.uk.
