Dean Smith Grace Lathe Owners

[MB01]

So I'm back again. Got the saddle off my DSG 1709 but still can't get the apron off. Opened up the gearbox but not enough space to undo the nut that connects to the leadscrew. The Manuel is extremely vague what do?

 

[rblalexander]

You need to disconnect the leadscre and feed rod from the headstock and pull them out the right hand side of the machine through the apron then its free to come out.

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[MB01]

That didn't answer th question I asked. I do not have enough space to undo the leadscrew nut in the gearbox. I am trying the remove the end bracket bearing block. As seen on this previous poster DSG lathe: replacing the power feed drive key

I am going to end up damaging the leadscrew, and feed shaft if I just continue to try and beat the thing off, the 2 locating pins are the issue but I'm not sure how to remove them. Does anyone who has a dsg 1709 or similar wanna give a buck a hand.

 

[Tyrone Shoelaces]

That didn't answer th question I asked. I do not have enough space to undo the leadscrew nut in the gearbox. I am trying the remove the end bracket bearing block. As seen on this previous poster DSG lathe: replacing the power feed drive key

I am going to end up damaging the leadscrew, and feed shaft if I just continue to try and beat the thing off, the 2 locating pins are the issue but I'm not sure how to remove them. Does anyone who has a dsg 1709 or similar wanna give a buck a hand.

If it’s the “ locating pins “ I think you mean, you need to pull them out with a slide hammer. Do that before you undo the cap head screws that are holding the bracket in place.

Regards Tyrone.

 

[ClappedOutBport]

If it’s the “ locating pins “ I think you mean, you need to pull them out with a slide hammer. Do that before you undo the cap head screws that are holding the bracket in place.

Regards Tyrone.

Yup. Dad made the mistake of not doing that on his Lagun that got jammed in a crash, bent the leadscrew slightly.

 

[rblalexander]

On my 1954 machine the tapered pin are threaded and have nuts on them, tighten the nuts to pull the pins out.

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[MB01]

Cheers buck.
Only problem now is the thread appears to be 5/16" BSW which appears to be totally unavailable for any thread puller. Can't even get BSW threaded bar in the EU. I'd be tempted to cut them or some other destructive removal method.

 

[Tyrone Shoelaces]

Cheers buck.
Only problem now is the thread appears to be 5/16" BSW which appears to be totally unavailable for any thread puller. Can't even get BSW threaded bar in the EU. I'd be tempted to cut them or some other destructive removal method.

Surely you can still buy 5/16” Whitworth set screws or bolts from somewhere. I used cap head screws in my slide hammer bits.

Failing that just tease the bracket away from the bed casting slightly. Just so you can get in between the bracket and the bed with a hacksaw blade. Once you’ve sawn through the pins you can remove the bracket and knock the pin heads out from behind. Regarding the halves of the pins still in the bed, you’ll have to drill and tap them for a thread you can use with your slide hammer.

Regards Tyrone.

 

[Greenwud]

Cheers buck.
Only problem now is the thread appears to be 5/16" BSW which appears to be totally unavailable for any thread puller. Can't even get BSW threaded bar in the EU. I'd be tempted to cut them or some other destructive removal method.

5/16 UNC will fit well enough to work in this application

 

[ClappedOutBport]

Cheers buck.
Only problem now is the thread appears to be 5/16" BSW which appears to be totally unavailable for any thread puller. Can't even get BSW threaded bar in the EU. I'd be tempted to cut them or some other destructive removal method.

Don't you have a lathe? Adapter is a 10 minute job, double female tapped piece.

 

[jeffers]

Some progress on the DSG 13 x30

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[M. Moore]

Pretty flaky job?

 

[PDW]

OK a week ago I got a DS&G Type 17 medium duty lathe. Pix later but it's like all the others.

Been cleaning off years of grunge, not too bad under it all.

I've sort of figured out the controls except how to engage the power feeds and I'm beginning to suspect there's a broken shear pin somewhere.

In most spindle speeds no rotation of the input shaft to the power feed g/box at all. In the 510rpm speed, things do indeed rotate BUT putting any drag on the carriage handwheel brings things to a stop, so it's just some form of hydraulic (?) drag or similar.

Either something is bad or I'm too dumb to find the magic lever combo that activates the power feeds. So - help???

FWIW the leadscrew is the same so it's definitely on the input to g/box side not the output side.

I popped the headstock cover off and nothing seems wrong, but what do I know?

PDW

 

[Mumf]

There are shear pins on the shafts just before they go into the gear box. As i recall, they do not actually shear but retract, so if they have done so i think the shaft has to be rotated for the holes to line up and the pins engage.

 

[MB01]

This should probably be in some other area of the forum my question is:

New Bearings or Old Bearings?

Is there any reason to use or not use a newer NSK Bearing than say the Original R&M Bearing
NSK is cheaper by about 50% just to clarify.
The auld bucks on here will have more wisdom than I so I'll leave it up to ye.
Cheers

 

[Tyrone Shoelaces]

This should probably be in some other area of the forum my question is:

New Bearings or Old Bearings?

Is there any reason to use or not use a newer NSK Bearing than say the Original R&M Bearing
NSK is cheaper by about 50% just to clarify.
The auld bucks on here will have more wisdom than I so I'll leave it up to ye.
Cheers

I suppose a lot depends where the bearing is going ?

Regards Tyrone.

 

[MB01]

I suppose a lot depends where the bearing is going ?

Regards Tyrone.

Probably going to replace almost all bearings in the lathe bar the spindle bearings which are so expensive i could buy another lathe with it.

Gearbox, Headstock, Apron, Saddle.
Are newer bearings less durable or poorer quality or less robust etc etc.
Just to clarify It's a DSG 1709x40 lathe.

 

[beckerkumm]

Good quality new bearings may be even better. For non precision applications, I like the ABEC 3 motor bearings that SKF, Natchi, NTN, etc make. SKF explorer or natchi Quest are examples. I tend to use the slightly higher precision and standard clearance rather than ABEC 1 and C3. Price difference is small. Watch out when buying bearings as CN and C3 are often interchanged. Not usually a big deal but I like to get what I specify. Dave

 

[Tyrone Shoelaces]

I would imagine modern NSK bearings would be better than the old Ransom & Marles bearings. It’s the spindle bearings that are critical.

Regards Tyrone.

 

[Greenwud]

FWIW, NSK took over what remained of R&M. Any bearing marked R&M is likely to be old stock.