Deburring inside of slit part - best tool to use?

[plastikdreams]

If you can't rely on the ops to do a simple debur step...do you have a recording that lets them know when to breathe in and out?

 

[Milland]

If you can't rely on the ops to do a simple debur step...do you have a recording that lets them know when to breathe in and out?

Don't let them go outside when it's raining - they might look up.

And just to complete post #8, I had pizza for dinner. Dr, Oetker Seasoned Chicken. Not bad...

 

[Nerdlinger]

The right vibe bowl with the right media should do it and result in a very uniform, burless part. Def run with drain and rinse with soapy solution to keep them clean...or at least at the end. There are many different types of media (shape, density, grit, etc) so make sure you get the right kind. If this is a repeat job and you want to send me one or two parts I can try it with different medias we have and if we have any luck I can let you know what media we used, how long it took, etc and send it back to you. (PM me) I’m sure you want to keep it in house but if you can find someone who has a “centrifugal disk finishing machine” it would take about 30 min and produce a jewelry-like finish:

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=ALm4Di0F4h0

Good luck!

 

[dandrummerman21]

Good replies here, I appreciate it.

Yes, I can't trust my operators to deburr them well enough.

I like the German Pizza cutters, I think I'll pick some of those up even if they don't end up working on this part well enough, they look useful to have for other things.

I looked at the ball hones, I should also pick up one of those because they also look useful. don't know if it will work but for 20 bucks, worth a try.

I would have to re-fixture (and have a lot more cycles because I wouldn't be able to run as many) to set up an indexer to turn the part to plunge an endmill down the ID before splitting. Running this on a 3 axis mill. I do like the idea, if this was on a horizontal, I'd be all about it.

As to the endmill idea, it would obviously work but the problem is the mill I put it on is very rpm limited, 4000 rpm 50 taper machine, but I can't run it 4000 rpm because it sounds like it will explode. I keep it under 2800rpm. 3200rpm and the thing whines too loud and has a weird vibration. I can run it on other machines in the future so I might try that route sometime later, but not now.

I would like suggestions on which tumbling media to use for steels. We do have a Burr-bench (Abrasive Finishing: Metal Finishing and Deburring Machines - Burr/Bench Metal Finisher Model 2016), an older generation one (probably 20 years old?). Some sort of larger (3/4" or so) flat triangular media of unknown "hardness" or even for what it is for. I find that the pump doesn't spit out enough soapy water to keep the inside clean (it barely trickles out of the hole inside). I think I might try to overhaul the thing soon because of that.

 

[vmipacman]

If it was me I would be in the triangle file camp. But I'm actually OK at using files I think. Like two level passes and I think it would remove the burr and be done.

BUT, since files are out, how about a hybrid aproach. One of those pheumatic files from harbor freight, help in a vise, triangle file, on/off valve. Could the opererator be trusted to hold the part up level? (If you like the idea I would also clamp a little bar hanging our parallel with the file flat to give it some support when you push up against it)

 

[dandrummerman21]

If it was me I would be in the triangle file camp. But I'm actually OK at using files I think. Like two level passes and I think it would remove the burr and be done.

BUT, since files are out, how about a hybrid aproach. One of those pheumatic files from harbor freight, help in a vise, triangle file, on/off valve. Could the opererator be trusted to hold the part up level? (If you like the idea I would also clamp a little bar hanging our parallel with the file flat to give it some support when you push up against it)

ha, my boss bought one of those pneumatic files a few months ago, I did already try that, it didn't work as well as a handheld file for me. It does only take maybe 3 or 4 strokes with a triangle file (for me), I tried for like 20 seconds and there was still a bit of a burr using the pneumatic one. They are not that good lol.

I could just try the "here is a file, I will check your parts every cycle and yell at you until you get it right" approach...

 

[pmack]

You could make an arbor for a slip fit on the i.d. with a keyway cut to fix the triangle file in. Tell employee to align the slot with file and push arbor through the part x number of times, with you determining x through trial and error. They shouldn't be able to mess that up.

 

[litlerob1]

I could just try the "here is a file, I will check your parts every cycle and yell at you until you get it right" approach...

I've never tried the Air files, it goes against the Workmanship I was taught by my Grandpa. VERY few power hand tools in my shop. Drill driver, Impact.....few others. Proper use of a File, is a talent to be learned, some old timers hold that talent very close to their chest.

Also remember the Millenial generation(or really their Mommies) are some sensitive people, so be careful that you give them a Lolli-pop on the way out for the day, if you yell at them.

 

[plastikdreams]

When I first started mold making I learned how to use rifflers and files on a compound radius mold cavity...we had plugged it and the CNC "wasn't available"....I learned a lot in those following days lol

 

[Nerdlinger]

I would like suggestions on which tumbling media to use for steels.

If I had that part and wanted to use one of the medias we already inventory it would be what we spec out as "ROSLER RX 5MM X 15MM S (ACT)." Rosler is the mfg and we get it from Advanced Finishing Technologies (Home - Advanced Finishing Technologies) as the distributor. It would probably be best to give AFT a call or send them a pic of your part so they can recommend a good media but it could be something like this:

 

[HuFlungDung]

If I was doing many of those, I'd just use my little pos Delta belt sander with the 1" x 30" band. I'd sneak the belt through the gap and sand away the burr. There is a 'backer board' supporting inside the belt on the factory unit which is too thick to pass through the gap, but a thinner one could be constructed. Perhaps no backer is needed. But the part can at least lay on the table so there is a halfways chance of getting an even looking edge.

 

[dandrummerman21]

If I had that part and wanted to use one of the medias we already inventory it would be what we spec out as "ROSLER RX 5MM X 15MM S (ACT)." Rosler is the mfg and we get it from Advanced Finishing Technologies (Home - Advanced Finishing Technologies) as the distributor. It would probably be best to give AFT a call or send them a pic of your part so they can recommend a good media but it could be something like this:

View attachment 231328

Cool, thanks for the suggestion. I'll be looking into it soon. I googled earlier and saw lots of info of particular materials, and what they are good for, but I didn't see too much info on which shape/size based on part geometry. Those flat long triangles do seem like they might get into the slit a bit better than the 3/4" x 1/4" triangles I have now.

After my last reply, I did fire up the burr bench, and looked into the "mud" situation. Our tumbler doesn't have a filter of any sort, so I took the little giant pump and threw it into a bucket (instead of the tiny tank it has) and tripled up some filter paper on it. Seems to have worked very well for reducing the mud, there is barely anything left on the part now... Wish I had figured that out ages ago, seems so simple.

It took about 2 hours to deburr the parts (I only threw in 16 of them). I think I might have the operator still throw a flap wheel or ball hone in it, then toss them in the tumbler in batches of a couple hundred (I dont think I could run more than that at a time). Does 2 hours seem excessive? I did not deburr it beforehand, but the burrs are really not that big in the first place...

 

[mc3608]

So this might not specifically be cnc related, but wasn't sure if there was something y'all have come up with for something similar in the past.

I have a part made of stressproof material, about 2" OD and 1.7 ID. I am putting a 3/32 slit in it to split it so the ring can collapse.

I am running a 3" HSS concave saw blade, 200rpm 4ipm. "conventional cutting" so the cutter starts the cut on the ID and exits on the OD of the part.

I mount these parts 2 at a time on "arbors" that allow them to hang on top of the jaws, and the jaws clamp directly onto the parts.

Anyway, I am deburring the OD with a chamfer tool in the machine, but I am having a hard time deburring the ID. Currently using a 80 or 120 grit flap wheel 1.5" diameter in a die grinder. I have to do it twice, once one way, and then flip the part and go the other way. And even when I do that, sometimes I "miss" the burr, and gotta do it again.

The real problem is, while I trust myself to deburr these, I am not gonna run it myself, wanna put someone else on it but I have a hard time trusting anyone else to deburr their damn parts right lately (seriously, its been problematic of late). Anyway, I want something a bit more foolproof, while being quick and easy.

I am running 16 pcs at a time (8 arbors in 2 double vises), that runs about 8 minutes. 1500 pcs total at this time. I don't expect the operator to beat that time while loading the next set of pins, but if they were able to deburr and load pins in about 12 minutes, that'd be great (we've run these many times before, only now after years of running have I changed the setup to include deburring!!! lol...)

Slight additional challenge, parts are not super round after slitting, sometimes springing in .030" at the slot, can't really hone them. and surface finish is important, must be 63 or better.

Have tumbler, our media sucks, so if suggesting to tumble, what media would you use? ours just turns our parts muddy, hard to clean off, and just really doesn't do a good job cutting.

Was thinking about some sort of "deburring wheel" like the ones we use on our pedestal grinders, but I don't see them that small?

Was also thinking of trying to slit it with a slightly smaller tool then come back with the 3/32 but don't know if that would work or just cause more grief.


I'm open to suggestions, thanks

I did 1000's of similar brass parts using a 1"x42 belt sander inside and out.

 

[kustomizer]

We run 6 vibratory machines and do not recirculate any of them, we dribble in new water and the dirty goes out and stays out.

 

[Ox]

Doesn't seem like you could ever git much flush that way?Don't you git a metallic powder like buildup on the parts that you hafta worsh off somehow afterwards?My cement mixer style tumbler - with no active recirc does this.I had to go to either kerosene or diesel fuel to keep the metal build-up off the parts.The only thing that my parts need after vibe is rust inhibitor. Whether that is our parts worsher (usually) or a dip in a bucket of coolant. Either one....-------------Think Snow Eh!Ox

 

[kustomizer]

When we start them for the first time each day turn them on, start the water dribbling then we add a tablespoon of liquid Tide to the ones with plastic triangles and to the ones with ceramic balls we add the Tide and a half cup of burnishing compound. At the end we dump in a few gallons of hot water then shut them off to drain. All we get out are bright shiny smooth parts.

 

[Ox]

OK, well - that's quite a bit of waste water then. Does that go into the city sewer?I would guess that you would have a stacking filter if that's the case?Somehow you must be collecting all of your solid waste (mostly worn media) in a filter somewhere?----------------------Think Snow Eh!Ox

 

[Ox]

I don't know what's wrong with the site right now - by not posting "spaces". ???------------------------Think Snow Eh!Ox

 

[kustomizer]

The water going in is just a dribble, a steady dripping ( too much water and the media tries to reverse it's action and won't deburr the parts), the water going out goes into a 50 cal ammo can, two machines per can to catch the solids the drain goes out near the top of the can past the bank of tumblers thru a filter sock then into a 15 gallon bucket and off to the septic. It looks drinkable when it leaves, likely tastes a bit soapy. The ammo cans have a union where the water exits so they can come off easy and be cleaned, the two with plastic media need it often ( every few months ), the ones with the ceramic balls only seem to collect stray balls.

 

[Ox]

OK - so you doo have a defacto settling tank(s) then.-------------------Think Snow Eh!Ox