Deckel FP1 Z Axis Lockout Lever and Insert Issue

[tfmetal]

Hello members,
Unfortunately my early 50's lever FP1 came without a Z axis lockout lever. It appears as though someone may have tried to repair the hole as the inner threads are damaged. The insert is still in the hole (appears to be brass or similar) and can still move slightly back and forth but it's captured. Has anyone taken these inserts out? I would assume they would come out the lever side, once the lever is removed. It will likely be fairly difficult to press it out as it's in the dovetail, might have to make a jig. I am considering machining the hole larger, pushing out the insert and then making my own plug and handle assembly. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Also, if anyone has a picture of one taken apart, that would be great. Hard to tell from the exploded diagrams in the manual if there are internal features required (although seems quite simple). Of course I did consider taking another one of the locking levers apart but pressing those pins out is not something I want to do. Thanks!

 

[tfmetal]

Wanted to bump this as I’m getting back into this project. Would anyone have any advice on how to fix this? Thanks!

 

[AlfaGTA]

Think a proper repair will be difficult without use of a machine.
Need to locate and align the casting and bore the lever hole oversize to clean up. ( existing sleeve removed in process)
Thread new bore. Fabricate bronze sleeve ( 932) with OD threads to match the OS bore threads, and ID threaded to match the locking lever.
I would be inclined to make the repair sleeve with a shoulder that would seat on the outside when installed to help secure the sleeve.
Install the sleeve with red LocTite.
Finish the sleeve flush on the inside to the gib.
The repair location is not critical along the Z axis, but is as to the angle and location front to rear.

The other option would be to remove the old sleeve, and clean up the existing hole.
Make a bronze or steel sleeve with integrated 2 ear flange that can be drilled for retaining screws.
The sleeve can fit down into the original hole ( clearanced to allow a thin sleeve)
To get a good footing for the flange to seat against machining a flat would be best, but some careful hand work with a Dremel or die grinder will get you close. Final fitting use a metallic epoxy ( Devecon) to fill any space on the hole and to form a pad for the flange to seat against. Install would become permanent.

Cheers Ross